Ultimate Guide to Georgian Supra: Traditions, Customs, Tips

Attending a Georgian Supra feast is an experience you can’t miss when you visit Georgia. This centuries-old tradition is far more than a dinner; it’s a lively celebration of food, wine, music, and heartfelt toasts that showcase the essence of Georgian hospitality.

This ultimate guide will walk you through everything you need to know about the Georgian Supra: its origins, the role of the Tamada (toastmaster), what to expect when you’re a guest, and how to make the most of this unforgettable experience.

The tradition of Supra is an integral part of Georgian social culture. No gathering, small or big, is simply unimaginable in local families without it. A Supra is about sharing moments, connecting with people, and embracing the joy of togetherness. In 2017, it was even inscribed on the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Georgia list.

We have two types of Supra—a festive one called Qeipi (also written as Keipi) in Georgian and a somber one called Qelekhi (also written as Kelekhi), held after the burials. Both have their own rules, customs, and menus.

Since childhood, I have set up hundreds of Supras and attended more than I could count on. I have a big family, and the list of close relatives is even bigger. My family often hosted big dinner parties for friends and relatives gatherings, and we frequently attended their celebrations, too.

While frequent gatherings might have dialed down a bit in this modern world, traditional Georgian Supra remains essential to our identity, especially for the celebrations and sorrow.  

For locals, a Supra might feel like just another dinner, but for visitors, its rules, roles, and traditions can be a bit overwhelming at first. That’s why I’ve created this guide—to help you navigate and fully appreciate this cherished custom.

History of Georgian Supra

It isn’t easy to date the origin of the Supra, as its roots go back centuries, but there are a few beliefs. In Georgian, the word “Supra” translates to “tablecloth.” Its sources trace back to the Persian word sofre, which also means “tablecloth.”

The dynamic Georgian Supra, celebrated today as a symbol of hospitality and tradition, has deep and complex historical roots. While feasting and wine culture are perpetuated in classic Georgian literary works like The Knight in the Panther’s Skin, the structured tradition of the toastmaster—or Tamada—and the ritualistic toasts we associate with the Supra today were notably absent in earlier accounts.

Historical records reveal that the term Tamada only began to appear in the 19th century. Even the term Supra had a different connotation in medieval Georgia. However, in 2006, a small bronze statue of a man with a horn (used as a drinking glass) dating back to the 7th century BC was discovered in Vani, 41km from Kutaisi. This makes it the historical ancestor of the modern Tamada.

Earlier Georgian words for feasting, such as nadimi and puroba (derived from puri, meaning “bread”), reveal a simpler tradition focused on the meal itself, without the elaborate customs of the modern Supra. Historians suggest that our Supra’s evolution owes much to cultural exchanges with Safavid Iran.

During the Safavid era in Georgia, when Persian influence was strong in the Kingdom of Kartli and Kakheti, the Georgian court in Tbilisi adopted many ceremonial practices and terms, including the sohbat (drinking companionship) and sofre (formal banquet). 

Interestingly, while the Persian sofre has since adopted a more subdued character, our traditional feast preserved its lively, wine-filled spirit. Over time, this word became part of our vocabulary, evolving into the now iconic term Supra.

According to philologist Levan Bregadze, the Supra, as we know it today, began to take shape in the early 19th century when we became part of the Russian Empire and spread across the regions, becoming a cornerstone of the country’s cultural identity.

During times of social and political oppression by Imperial Russia, the Georgian feast became more than a dinner and served as a quiet yet powerful form of resistance, offering a way to reclaim a sense of control and unity.

Toasting allowed people to express devotion to their country, faith, and family in ways that transcended these restrictions. Singing, dancing, and storytelling further enriched these gatherings, ensuring that Georgian customs endured through generations.

Supras were also spaces for political debates, poetry recitals, and musical performances, making them as intellectually enriching as they were celebratory.

Today, the Supra remains an honored and vibrant tradition. Being invited to one is a privilege for any visitor. It’s a chance to connect with the culture on a deep level.

Georgian Supra traditions and rules

Women and men participate in preparing the Supra and make pre-selected dishes. Table etiquette includes the specific rights and duties of both.

Traditionally, men take center stage at a Georgian feast, often leading the toasts and conversations. On the other hand, women typically play supporting roles, especially when preparing the food that fills the feast.

In rural regions like Tusheti, Supra often follows traditional customs, with men and women celebrating separately. In more modern parts of the country, this practice is less common.

However, you’ll still notice that the hostess typically stays busy in the kitchen, preparing dishes that come later to the Supra table and ensuring the plates are always stocked with food.

The Supra traditions vary depending on the region and occasion, as do the order in which Georgian dishes are brought to the table and the sequence of toasts.

A table can be laid for celebratory and mourning events, and the Georgian Supra menu and tone can be modified. Festive Supra lasts 4-5 hours or even more, while the mourning one lasts up to 2 hours and features 7-9 toasts. Still, the main philosophy behind the event—communal sharing and sitting together for a meal—remains the same.

The Supra has six central aspects: setting the table, Tamada, order of toasts, food, wine, and cultural expression through songs, poems, and dances. The latter is obviously omitted in the Qelekhi (the somber) Supra. The primary rules are the same, with several adjustments depending on the event.

At the end of the post, I also provide a few tips on how to prepare and survive the Supra, whether big or small, whenever you attend it.

Setting up the Supra table

When we expect guests or have a formal dinner, for instance, for Easter or Christmas/New Year celebrations, we set up the table in a certain way. First, we chose the most beautiful tablecloth, changing it based on the celebration. My mom has a specific tablecloth for big gatherings made from a particular material that easily washes out the stains.

The placement of tableware also has rules. We use mid-size and big plates placed on top of each other. The big one serves as the charger plate, and we don’t typically use it for eating. Instead, we use the mid-size one.

During the traditional feast, the hostess will replace your mid-size plate with a new one, especially when she sees your plate has some leftovers from stews or other dishes that might prevent you from eating more.

A single fork and knife are set on the sides of the plate, and we don’t put other cutlery, such as dessert spoons, fish forks and knives, or soup spoons, on the table.

Sometimes, hosts also place slices of shoti or tone bread directly on the individual plates, while the bread basket is at the corner of the table or somewhere in the central part, where you’ll need to ask a person sitting next to you to pass it on when needed.

There are always two glasses—one smaller for wine and one bigger for soft drinks such as lemonade and sparkling water. Traditionally, we don’t use standardized wine glasses with stems because Georgian drinking differs entirely from what you might be used to. However, typical wine glasses are becoming standard depending on the place, family, and occasion.

Paper napkins are placed under the fork and next to the plate (sometimes on top of the plate), and additional ones are placed either in a napkin holder or a glass.

Since the Supra features food in the center of the table instead of being served individually, we lay dishes according to the number of guests we expect.  

We put one sort of food on the table for every four or five guests. This rule applies to condiments such as salt, pepper, and napkin holders. For example, if we expect 15 people, the table will have three plates of pickles, three Pkhali, three salt and pepper, three napkin holders, three Tkemali sauces, etc. This is mainly for appetizers and cold dishes, excluding bread and Khachapuri.

Such a layout enables guests to comfortably reach any food they might want during the dinner instead of constantly asking someone to pass it on or waiting for others to be handed down the table.

Tamada – the toastmaster

A tamada (always a male) or a toastmaster always leads a traditional Supra, regardless of size and type. No matter the reason, he is the prime figure of the gathering and introduces each toast during the feast.

The host usually chooses the Tamada in advance for formal occasions, such as weddings, celebrations of a child’s birth, or Qelekhi (the mourning dinner). At the beginning of such events, the head of the family, who chose the Tamada, introduces him by proposing the toast. Guests follow the host and toast for the Tamada.

During informal gatherings, the host or the guests choose the Tamada on the spot. Sometimes, if the Supra is small and has only a few guests, the head of the household is the Tamada. Nowadays, the younger generation usually rotates the responsibility and bends the rules.

A successful Tamada must have specific characteristics, intelligence, a sense of humor, excellent rhetorical skills, the ability to deliver each toast with originality, and the power to consume an unimaginable amount of wine. He is anticipated to empty each glass of wine on each toast but should not show signs of being drunk the entire evening.

Toasts should also be medium-sized and to the point but not too short or lengthy. Traditionally, Tamada follows a specific sequence of toasts; however, if spontaneity is appropriate, he should know when to say what.

A good Tamada should also sense the table’s mood and maintain a pleasant atmosphere throughout the dinner. He should also skillfully control how much wine is drunk by reducing or increasing the number of toasts. Usually, many toasts are said at the start of the Supra, and then they slow down as the night goes on.

Supra etiquette during toasts

At the beginning of the dinner, the Tamada chooses a merikiphe, who is responsible for filling up the wine glasses. However, in modern days, this is more or less a shared habit among male guests. 

During the evening, Tamada proposes a toast that should be entertaining and respectful and discuss the topic further. Once finished, the guests raise their glasses, saying “gaumarjos,” which is equivalent to “cheers” in Georgian and means “to victory.” Male guests do not drink right away, but females can.

Afterward, male guests are expected to follow suit and say an individual toast. Once a person says a toast, he drains the entire glass of wine. Some toasts requires for men to stand up.

While eating is appropriate during toasts, I would still refrain from it or keep it at a minimum out of respect. On the other hand, talking between guests during the toast is considered impolite to Tamada or whoever says the toast.

Once everyone who wishes to say the toast has done so, there is a brief break for eating and socializing. Then Tamada proposes a new toast whenever he thinks appropriate, and the cycle begins again.

Order of toasts

Toasting in Georgia has more meaning than being a simple salute. These elevated speeches often incorporate versatile themes and personal stories. And if done well, it can be pretty beautiful, joyful, and emotional.

Like there are two types of Supra, there are also two types of toasts. In the celebratory feasts or Qeipi, the toast is called sadghegrdzelo. The word “dghegrdzeli” means “to live long.” In a Qelekhi, the mourning feast, the toast is called shensandobari, where the word “shendoba” means “to forgive” or “remit.”

The order of Sadghegrdzelo or Shesandobari may differ slightly depending on the region, the situation, the family, and the table’s mood. However, a few remain the same.

As a religious country, the first toast is always for God, followed by a toast for the nation—Sakartvelo (Georgia in the local language is called Sakartvelo). We are incredibly proud of our country and its accomplishments over the centuries. Therefore, we praise our country right at the beginning of the feast, highlighting how beautiful Georgia is.

Then comes a toast to peace after being through so many wars, invasions, and rulers. The fourth toast is for the reason of the gathering. Whether it’s a wedding or a birthday celebration, Tamada and the other guests congratulate the person by wishing luck, happiness, prosperity, and well-being.

Afterward, it comes time to respect the dead. Every male stands up with Tamada and proposes a toast to the ancestors and anyone who cannot join this feast at that moment. Toasts typically include the most recently deceased person at first.

Once everyone drinks to this, we say, “You can’t stop at the dead,” and almost immediately propose a new toast for the “new life,” a.k.a. the new generation and children. Like a toast for the dead, Tamada first mentions the youngest children and blesses them in front of their parents.

Then, separate toasts are said for host family members such as the elderly, siblings, hostesses, and relatives. Also, a separate toast is given to women in general, explicitly highlighting those at the Supra.

Then comes a toast to friendship. We honor our friendships very much and are very devoted to these relationships. We also say a toast to love, the feeling you have for anyone and anything—love of family, friends, the country, a spouse, etc.

From now on, the list of toasts can be pretty spontaneous, but Tamada later starts saying toasts that signify the end of Supra. This includes a toast to the host family and thanks to the hostess, adding a few words about the new friendships formed during the feast and expressing the desire for future gatherings that include the same group.

Special toasts are made from different glasses, such as kantsi (animal horn), bowls, or oversized glass. When these special toasts are made, male guests are expected to drink for those vessels until the last drop.

After some special toasts, it is customary to turn the drinking glass upside down once finished to show that you drank until the last drop. Once we do this, we also say, “Ase mteri dagetsalos” or “May your enemy be as empty [as this glass],” when translated directly.

It is also quite common for a guest to arrive late to Supra. When this happens, Tamada and the attendees make fun of them and tell a toast in their name. It is usually humorous and ironic and can’t be taken seriously. This toast even has a name, “shemostsrebuli.”  

During the feast, in addition to everyone saying the toast, Tamada can also give “Alaverdi” – permission to a specific person to say a toast right after Tamada finishes his.

Enormous amount of food

An authentic Supra, big or small, features a plethora of the finest dishes from Georgian cuisine. The table is never empty; on the contrary, it expands as the feast continues throughout the evening.

If the table seems already full of cold appetizers, condiments, cheese, and pickle plates when you sit down, be sure that more food is brought out from the kitchen, especially the hot and meat dishes. There is always something vegetarian on the table, too, so you don’t need to worry.  

When there is no space for the new dishes on the table, the plates usually stack upon each other. If a plate of a particular dish is empty, the hostess refills it, showcasing genuine Georgian hospitality and the true meaning behind our saying, “Guest is from God.”

The staples of the Supra include Khachapuri (the cheese pie) or Lobiani (depending on the region or fasting period), Mtsvadi (the pork BBQ), Pkhali platter (the plant-based dish with walnut paste), Nigvziani Badrijani (eggplant with walnuts), simple Georgian salad, and one or two hot meat stews that arrive slightly late. The meat stews vary and depend on the family, but they usually include beef or chicken dishes.

In typical Georgian family gatherings, Khinkali dumplings are not part of the Supra unless you are invited to a Supra hosted by someone from the mountain region where the dumplings are the primary dish.

You might already know that Georgian desserts are not as typical as you might be used to. In traditional cuisine, we don’t usually have cakes, and the few we have are the remnants of the Soviet era. Instead, we offer a plate of fresh fruit and baked or store-bought cakes.

However, you might also find a platter of Churchkhela, dried fruits, and nuts at the Supra or plates of Pelamushi (the thickened grape juice “pudding”) served to the guests.

Wine is the centerpiece of the Supra

As the birthplace of winemaking, it is no surprise that the traditional Supra always features wine as its main alcoholic beverage. We only drink white wine and not red wine at the Supra. Only youngsters’ get-togethers or friends’ gatherings might include more potent alcohol such as vodka, brandy, or whiskey.

Out of about 1500 grape types used for winemaking globally, around 500 are endemic to Georgia. Therefore, wine selection varies by region; however, the most common is Rkatsiteli.

The glasses of wine for an untrained eye would often seem bottomless, as the host or the Merikiphe constantly refills it. Most of the Georgians make their own wine. This might not be the case in Tbilisi anymore, but it is a common practice elsewhere, and the host will be bringing unopened jugs out of his pantry or a cellar.

Wine is another part of Georgian culture we are proud of and families enjoy sharing what they’ve produced with guests at the Supra.

Songs and dances

It is common to have unexpected singing and dancing between toasts, but not always as it highly depends on the group gathered around the Supra.

Polyphonic signing is part of Georgian culture and tradition. Depending on the occasion and the formality of the Supra, guests sing various folk songs, sometimes accompanied by traditional dances.

Therefore, Supra is not about getting drunk but celebrating different life moments between close friends and family.

A summary of Qelekhi – the somber Supra

Qelekhi, also called Chiris Supra (the Supra of Plague), is held immediately after the burial of the deceased. This kind of Supra originated when the relatives of the deceased made long journeys to respect the dead and attend the burial ceremony. Therefore, these relatives needed to be appreciated back by offering them food after long travels.

Honestly, I don’t like the tradition of Qelekhi and have only attended a handful of it. Despite my generation’s dislike of this tradition, we sometimes still host them to respect the elderly.

Besides Qelekhi, we also mark 40 days and one year after the death by hosting a Supra. The customs of the last two are very similar to Qelekhi.

Like the celebratory one, Qelekhi has a Tamada and a set of toasts. In this case, the toasts circle the topic of the deceased and mainly express the desire for their well-being in heaven and for them to find eternal peace.

Instead of “gaumarjos,” the cheer for the celebratory feast, we say “Khsovna Ikos,” meaning “may they be remembered.”

Besides the staples of Georgian cuisine that any Supra entails, a few dishes are prepared as part of Qelekhi. They are hard to find elsewhere outside of this ritualistic tradition.

One is Kolio, also known as Korkoti, a Georgian sweet dessert-like dish made from wheat grains, raisins, and honey. Another is Shila Plavi, a rice dish with meat, either beef or lamb, served as the final dish of Qelekhi, signaling that the feast has ended and the guests can leave.

Tips on how to survive it as a foreigner

Sadly, it is tough for the typical tourist to experience the traditional Georgian Supra. Even though there is a market for it, many tour companies don’t offer such tours because it is still a family and friend-oriented tradition. 

However, my friends and partners at Eat This! Tours do have a Supra feast tour outside Tbilisi. I attended one of their Sighnaghi Wine tours, including a traditional dinner at the end. It was genuinely authentic, with singing and piano performances.

Otherwise, if you are lucky enough to be invited to a family gathering or big celebration, here are a few tips on preparing and surviving.

Come hungry, as there is tons of food at Supra. The main rule is that you must eat! Your hosts will make remarks every time you have an empty plate. Even if you take a break, you’ll hear them saying you haven’t eaten anything, so keep something on your plate and slowly nibble on it.

That said, don’t fill your stomach with the meals already laid on the table; more will always come. So take it slow.

Since most families outside Tbilisi grow and harvest grapes in their courtyards or vineyards and make their own wine, it is customary to complement the wine.

As mentioned above, Georgian men drink the entire glass of wine after the toasts. These are small glasses, around 120 ml per serving. But when you multiply it by several toasts, it equals a significant amount. 

You’ll most likely be pressured to finish the glass if you are a male; you can, but you don’t have to. Nowadays, Georgians have become more liberal in terms of pressuring foreigners to keep up with their drinking habits. Instead, you can politely decline and sip a little. However, expect your glass always to be full, even if you’ve only had one sip.

Let the Tamada know if you want to say a toast, and they’ll be delighted to listen to your speech. However, it would be very respectful to finish the entire glass if you can; if not, drink at your own pace. They won’t be offended.

Even if you are accustomed to heavy drinking, you are still unfamiliar with Georgian wine, which varies incredibly based on the region, winemaker, and storage conditions. Therefore, I’d suggest sticking with your limits and not overdoing it.

Even my dad’s wine, made here in Tbilisi more or less with the same technique and stored in the same cellar, varies by jug and bottle. Sometimes, I can barely finish one glass, while other times, I can easily drink more.

If you don’t or can’t drink, it’s okay. However, as Georgians are very straightforward about needing to know personal things, you might be asked why. Your host will most likely be disappointed because, for Georgians, not drinking without medical or personal reasons is simply unimaginable, but they’ll understand.

Being able to hold your liquor to survive the Supra is essential, as is eating as much food as possible between the toasts to keep your stomach full with the amount of wine you are consuming.

That said, have fun with the people around you, embrace the local hospitality and customs, and don’t be afraid to decline to drink or to eat politely.