What to do in Telavi in 2024: History, Culture & Gastronomy

With a backdrop of majestic Caucasus mountains, Telavi is the biggest city in Kakheti, boasting historical appeal, wine culture, Prince’s estate, and various monasteries nearby. Often overshadowed by other destinations in Kakheti, many tourists usually skip it. And this detailed guide to what to do in Telavi will prove why you shouldn’t.

Georgia’s eastern region, Kakheti, is often called and considered the country’s prime wine area, making it a popular destination for a day trip from Tbilisi to explore its historic landmarks or go on wine tours

what to do in telavi

Sighnaghi, a charming walled town, is one of the most visited cities in Kakheti. However, Telavi is a much better choice to make a base of your regional adventures because of more accommodation options, well-connected public transport, and a more local vibe. 

Similar to other small regional capitals like Zugdidi or Gori, Telavi is a walkable and tranquil town with beautiful buildings, historical landmarks, a lively market, and a few great restaurants to devour Georgian cuisine. 

In this complete travel guide, I provide my recommendations on what to do in Telavi, how many days to spend here, the best time to visit, a short list of hotels to stay, and how to get to Telavi from Tbilisi or Sighnaghi.

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Why visit Telavi?

Telavi is one of the oldest towns in the region, believed to be dating back to the Late Bronze Age. The town’s heyday and of the whole region was during the 17th century when it regained its position as the Kingdom of Kakheti’s capital. 

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When King Erekle II from the Bagrationi dynasty, also called Patara Kakhi (Little Kakhetian) in Georgian historical sources, came into power, Telavi grew as an important cultural, industrial, and strategic city.

Generally, Georgia has been the epicenter of many invasions throughout history because of its excellent geographical location. However, the main focus was almost always on Kakheti as it’s closer to the Middle East and Central Asia. Due to this, the many landmarks in their original state are very rare, and inscriptions on those sights convey how important this area used to be both culturally and historically.

King Erekle II dedicated his life to the cause of the physical survival of the Georgian nation. He unified two areas of Georgia – Kartli and Kakheti – in the 18th century and held diplomatic relationships with the Russian Empire, leading to the signing of the Treaty of Georgievsk in 1783. The treaty set Russia as a protector of eastern Georgia and ensured its territorial integrity. 

things to do in telavi

During Erekle’s reign, his reforms fundamentally changed the political, cultural, and economic orientation of the Kartl-Kakheti Kingdom and, subsequently, of the whole of Georgia.

Because of its historical past, Telavi has plenty of important landmarks, both inside the city and a few kilometers away. It is one of the best places to visit in Georgia, giving you a different perspective of the whole region.  



The best time to visit Telavi

Telavi is beautiful in all seasons. However, remember that summer days might get very hot and unbearable. 

Late September and October are some of the best times to visit Telavi as the region prepares for Rtveli, the country’s grape harvest season. Note that some small wineries near the town might be closed because of the harvest. However, some wineries offer Rtveli experience and require prior bookings. 

Want to experience Rtveli in Kakheti? My friends at Eat This! do Rtveli tours during the season and offer three different types. Book your spot here and use the code RFD5 for a 5% discount.

Spring is another great time to visit Telavi, but rainfall is typical. And winter is mild, with clear skies most of the time. 

My favorite time is still late spring and autumn. Fall is incredibly gorgeous over the Gombori Pass, featuring stunning foliage and a fall color palette over the hills. 

How many days do you need in Telavi?

While many people visit Telavi as a day trip from Tbilisi, it is not entirely a day-trip city. Its laidback environment, not crowded streets, and a handful of things to do in Telavi and nearby make it a great 2-3 day trip getaway. 

You can easily see most city landmarks outlined here in a day. Depending on how you travel and what other activities you add to your Telavi itinerary, I’d recommend adding one or two days. 

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You’d require one full day if you want to see all the monasteries listed below. Depending on where you go, you’d need half the day for a wine tasting and lunch at a winery. A similar would be for the goat cheese farm visit. 

If you only have one day for Telavi and want to try different wines at family-run wineries, devoir delicious lunch, and do a bit of sightseeing, my friends at Eat This! offer small group tours. Book here and use code RFD to get 5% off. 

Where to stay in Telavi

Budget-friendly: Dzveli Galavani-Old Wall – Housed in one of the heritage houses on Cholokashvili Street, the boutique and budget-friendly hotel in Telavi offers an easy check-in and check-out, a garden, and a bar. It also has a shared kitchen if you want to prepare a meal or a snack. 

Hestia – Hotel, Wine, and View – With a stylish and modern design, the hotel is one of the quickly booked hotels in Telavi. Bright and colorful rooms adorned with gorgeous art make Hestia a special place indeed. 

Boutique: Communal Hotel Telavi is a chain with two hotels in Tbilisi – Sololaki and Plekhanovi, and now recently opened in Kutaisi. With an outdoor swimming pool and central location, it is one of the top choices when looking for a place to stay in Telavi. 

Luxury hotel/resort: Radisson Collection Tsinandali – for a more luxurious experience, Radisson Collection Tsinandali is one of the choices. Located in Tsinandali Estate, 9 km from Telavi, the hotel boasts spacious lounges, dining areas, an outdoor swimming pool in all seasons, and a sophisticated design. 

Esquisse Boutique Hotel – if you are after a luxurious stay with a bit lower price than Radisson Collection Tsinandali, Esquisse Hotel might be the right choice. The hotel has both indoor and outdoor pools and an on-site restaurant. 

Winery to stay: Hotel & Wine Cellar ARGE – overlooking private vineyards, stunning Caucasus mountains, and Alazani Valley, it’s a relatively easy choice to stay at Arge. With a terrace, outdoor swimming pool, bright rooms, colorful furniture, and a private wine cellar, Arge is one of the great choices for staying in Telavi. 

→ Nothing suited to your needs? See more Telavi hotels on Booking.com

How to get around in Telavi

Telavi is a relatively small city with all the attractions within the center, making it a walkable town; however, if you explore the nearby monasteries, wineries, farms, etc., you will need a car. Otherwise, you’ll need to rely on taxis or pre-book transportation with GoTrip.ge to the monasteries.

The Bolt app works in Telavi, but they only offer one type of car, which is always busy. The easiest way to get a taxi is to ask your host or the receptionist at the hotel. Alternatively, here is a local taxi number: +995 350 231 414. 

How to get to Telavi

Route from Tbilisi to Telavi

While marshrutkas depart from Isani and Ortachala, many locals, including myself, opt for shared taxis from the Isani Metro Station. A shared taxi is like carpooling, where you share the ride with other passengers and pay a flat rate per person. Sometimes, the drivers stand at the metro entrance, shouting the destinations to which they are offering a ride. 

To share a taxi, the driver should collect three passengers. However, you can also pay the total price or the difference if it’s taking him a long time to get the third person. 

Usually, a taxi from Tbilisi to Telavi gets full quickly, so you may not have to wait long. The price per person is 20 GEL.

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The distance between Tbilisi and Telavi is 95 km, and the drive takes around 2 hrs. The shortest way from Tbilisi to Telavi is via Gombori Pass, which offers beautiful views of the mountainous landscape and shortens the journey by 40 minutes compared to driving through Gurjaani.

Shared taxis take the Gombori Pass route, and even if you are driving, I advise taking the same road.

If you prefer to self-drive and have the flexibility of visiting nearby landmarks I talk below, rent a car at LocalRent for its affordable prices and wide choice. Alternatively, you can also use the private driver service of GoTrip.ge to get from Tbilisi to Telavi and even see the nearby monasteries. Unfortunately, there is no Tbilisi to Telavi train.  

Route from Sighnaghi to Telavi

Sighnaghi is 60 kilometers away from Telavi, the road passing through various villages, including Gurjaani, Vazisubani, and Mukuzani, to name a few. The journey takes around 1:30 minutes. Unfortunately, those two cities have few public transport options, so the best way is to get a shared/private taxi or rent a car.

The road from Sighnaghi to Telavi also passes through many wineries along the way, so if that’s something you are interested in, you can visit some of them. 

What to do in Telavi with a map

For a more comfortable way of exploring the city, here is the Google Maps list of all the places to visit in Telavi for you to save and use whenever you need it. If you download the area for offline use, you will not need the data to access the spots

Things to do in Telavi city

As mentioned earlier, Telavi is a walkable city with the main sights within a few minute’s reach from each other. If you love wandering through small towns, discovering their hidden alleys, admiring buildings, and visiting small museums, the city will keep you occupied for 4 to 5 hours during your visit. Here are some of the best things to do in Telavi city. 

Roam inside the castle walls

Translated as the Castle of the Lord in English, Batonis Tsikhe was the residence of Kakhetian kings in the 17th and 18th centuries. Located at the very center of Telavi, it consisted of a palace, fortress walls, two gate-side churches, a tunnel, and a bath. 

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King Archil of Kakheti constructed the original palace between 1664 and 1675. Later, it was damaged and reconstructed several times. Erekle II rebuilt and expanded the palace between 1750 and 1762. Batonis Tsikhe is of a simple Persian design, apparently mirroring Arg of Karim Khan in Iran’s city of Shiraz. 

A monumental rampart and sizeable circular corner towers encircle the palace complex. The rectangular palace has four balconies facing essential points of the city. The castle probably had interior decorations typical to Persian palaces, including mirror mosaics, oil paintings, and stucco, but they have not survived to this day.

Visiting Batonis Tsikhe is one of the iconic things to do in Telavi, where walls are made of stone and are 5m high. Two gate entrances remain, but only one is open to the public. 

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The entire complex experienced comprehensive renovation in 2018 and now houses a museum showcasing ethnographic and archaeological manuscripts and a fine arts gallery. I talk more about the museum below. 

Within the castle grounds is also a public school established in 1885, where my mom, who was born in Telavi, used to go until my grandmother moved from Telavi to Tbilisi.

You can freely roam inside the walls, admire gorgeous views of Telavi and Caucasus mountains on a clear day, go inside the small church, and even peek into an old bathhouse at one of the corners of the defensive wall.

This one-story bathhouse is built according to the structure of the old Georgian bathhouses. The bath, constructed with cobblestone, has a spherical dome typical to the sulfur baths in Tbilisi, with a round skylight to bring light to the space. Unfortunately, the bathhouse’s original and complete form hasn’t been preserved today, and only a small part remains.

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Once done with a visit to the museum and wandering the castle grounds, walk to the statue of King Erekle II overlooking the lower part of the city, offering views of the Alazani Valley and Caucasus mountains. 

The circular tower-looking construction where the statue sits today used to be a cannon tower with a diameter of 14m, built by the order of Queen Darejan, the wife of King Erekle II. As a side note, Queen Darejan’s palace in Tbilisi’s Old Town offers magnificent views of Narikala Fortress, making it both a very Instagrammable spot and a must-visit for your Tbilisi itinerary

Learn more about Telavi in its museum

Telavi History Museum is divided into ethnographic objects, fine arts pieces, and Erekle II’s house palace, where he was born and died. 

I recommend starting from the ethnographic part on your left once you go inside. Here, you’ll find various archeological items found in Telavi and the whole Kakheti region. A considerable amount of exhibits also showcase beautiful carpets and traditional clothes. My favorite part of any historical and cultural museum is looking at archival photos of the city’s residents and how they dressed. 

I especially loved the vintage wine bottles with medals they were awarded at various European wine expos. 

The small fine arts gallery presents remarkable paintings donated by Ketevan Iashvili, a Telavi resident. Besides international artists, you’ll find works of prominent Georgian painters that represent landscapes and Telavi’s daily lives. I especially loved Jemal Khutsishvili’s colorful Rtveli (wine harvest) scene.

The third part of the museum leads you to the 17th century, the very modest palace where Erekle II was born in 1720 and died in 1798, coincidently in the same room (pictured here). 

The Royal Palace has a Persian design with pointed arched high ceilings, tiled floors, stained glass windows, and open terraces on all sides. 

  • Opening hours: Tue-Sun from 10 am to 6 pm; Closed on Mondays
  • Entrance fee: adults – 7 GEL

Tell your wishes to the giant Plane tree

You might wonder why I include this as one of the things to do in Telavi, but this huge tree has been standing here for 900 years, making it an integral part of the city and a popular tourist attraction. It’s 12 meters wide and 46 meters high! 

The legend is that there was a plane tree lane right at this spot. The branches of one of them were so high that it looked as if it reached the blue sky. Because of that, people started believing it was a link between heaven and earth. Therefore, locals began to appreciate the tree, gathered around it, and revealed their stories and dreams.

Time passed, and the plane tree lane was destroyed. Residents managed to save only one tree, and as a sign of gratitude, the tree started to grant the dreams and wishes of those who came here and revealed them to the tree. Even today, the tradition continues.

From here, you can admire the gorgeous examples of Kakhetian wooden carved balconies on the opposite side of the street. 

Drink water from the spring

Many people walk past this spot without even realizing there’s a spring a few meters from the Pine Tree, maybe because it has access via stairs and is not directly connected to the road. 

Batonis Tskaro, translated as the Spring of the Lord, is an 18th-century building constructed in Persian style with Georgian red bricks and cobblestones. 

You might notice a QR code below a ceramic-tile-decorated sign that leads to a project, Telaviin, a great initiative to show the history of those important buildings scattered in the city. Sadly, most QR codes were not working when I tried them. 

Try handmade chocolate

Dakishvili Wine Boutique at 2 Erekle II Street offers a wine tasting of their family wines and handmade chocolate. They sell bonbons and chocolate bars, both classic and with added ingredients such as nuts and dried fruits. 

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I opted for a chocolate bar box with white, dark, and milk chocolate bars with nuts and fruits, as pictured here. 

Admire remarkable Soviet architecture 

A considerable amount of beautiful 20th-century architecture lines up both sides of Erekle II Street, the main street of Telavi. Here are a few of them worth looking up at. 

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The massive building with a tower, open balconies, and columned passage is one of the most beautiful Soviet buildings in Telavi at No. 2

A yellow building at No.6 used to house City Hall, whose facade features partitions with decorative arcades. It is one of the most interesting examples of the Soviet architecture of the mid-twentieth century. 

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At No.12, the former post office at the intersection of two streets is another excellent Soviet architectural building constructed with the elements of pseudo-Corinthian order, and the third floor has decorative colonnades and arches.

The building at the corner of Erekle II and Chokheli Streets has an ornate circular pavilion nestled on the tower’s roof, which is especially eye-catching. 

Don’t miss a clock decoration on a house

This is another less-known landmark in Telavi that many people miss, including me, until my last visit. 

Tucked away from Erekle II Street, the 1900 building that today is partly residential party a billiards bar has some of the most unusual decorations I’ve seen on a house facade in Georgia. 

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The red-brick roof embellishment has a clock dial with Roman numbers and arrows, all done in red bricks. Inside the clock dial is another dial that I have a hard time reading what it says. 

Above the clock are three letters, probably an owner’s initials. And if you look closer, you’ll also notice a year – 1900 – and hands on both sides of the clock. 

Marvel at heritage houses

Being one of the oldest towns in Kakheti, Telavi boasts plenty of cultural and historical houses that the government protects. Each of such homes has a plate that helps you identify them, and some even have QR codes of the above-mentioned Telaviin project if you get it working (a few pages require constant refreshing to bring up the text). 

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The prime example of charming wooden carved balconies is at Erekle II square, close to the Giant Pine Tree. However, besides Soviet architecture, Erekle II Street has a few gorgeous, intricate buildings with wooden carved balconies. 

The two-story house at No.9, which houses a Tourist Information Center, has a distinct design with a decorative wooden balcony supported by round columns made of bricks. 

The Elene Akhvlediani Art School building at No.4 is from the mid-19th century, made of brick and cobblestone, and features lace-like wooden carved balcony decoration. 

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Then, continue to Cholokashvili Street, one of the oldest streets in Telavi, which has been renovated recently, to find more heritage houses. 

Once you reach the end of Erekle II Street at the Biblus bookstore, you must cross the street towards the church. The cobbled street is lined with mainly red-brick heritage homes adorned with wooden balconies. 

You’ll find spaces, shops, bakeries, and eateries on the street that you can stop by. I also include a few of them below.

Devour delicious Georgian lunch at Doli restaurant

Doli is a restaurant and a wine bar at the Communal Hotel on Cholokashvili Street, offering mouthwatering Georgian cuisine in its small but cozy venue. 

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We stopped here for lunch after arriving, as we had some time before our check-in at the Esquisse Boutique Hotel, where we stayed last time I was in Telavi. Unfortunately, the Communal Hotel was sold out. As a side note, Communal Hotel has two venues in Tbilisi (Sololaki and Chughureti) and, quite recently, in Kutaisi

The name ‘Doli’ refers to a red doli flour, an endemic Georgian wheat, that the restaurant uses in all its doughy meals, including Khinkali, bread, and Khachapuri. 

Their menu mainly caters to vegetarians and vegans but also has a few meat-based dishes. We’ve tried a few of them, including potatoes fried on coal (my childhood favorite after having a bonfire in the village), buffalo patties, black bean hummus, Kakhetian tomato salad, and Dolma in vine leaves. 

The portions were reasonable, and the taste was impeccable. I loved every single dish we tried. 

Note: They open at 1:30 pm. For more information, contact them on Facebook or Instagram. Their Kutaisi branch also has a Doli restaurant. 

Buy local ceramic items

Opposite the Doli restaurant, you’ll find a pottery studio and shop, Kera, selling various ceramic items, including plates, mugs, bowls, and jugs, to name a few. They also have small souvenirs to bring back home. 

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Their oval plates and jugs with flower patterns and fish are adorable. All the items you see in the shop are made right in the studio. 

Shop for Churchkhela, Kakhetian oil, and cheese at the bazaar

Telavi’s bazaar is known for its size and variety of local produce, including fresh veggies and fruits, meat, fish, spices, nuts, and homemade dairy products. 

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Whenever I visit Telavi and its bazaar, I stock up on Churchkhela, Kakhetian sunflower oil, and Guda (goat) cheese from Tusheti

Some parts of the bazaar also have household and hardware items, clothes, and other everyday objects. The bazaar is open daily but come here in the morning or early afternoon on weekends to see more sellers and products. 

Relax at Nadikvari Park in the evening

Nadikvari Park is a go-to destination for many locals to relax during the evenings, especially during the warm days of spring, summer, and autumn. You’ll see many families, youngsters, and the elderly walking, talking, playing, and enjoying their time. 

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This hilltop park offers splendid views of the Greater Caucasus mountains and Alazani Valley as a backdrop of Telavi’s skyline. There are several viewing platforms, but the restaurant within the park, Nadikvari Terrace, offers the best view, a bit more elevated than those viewing platforms.  

Grab a drink or dinner (we had moderately good food here) while watching a beautiful sunset over the valley and the mountains. 

What to do in Telavi at night

Sample artisanal cheese at Oldisi

Besides wine, Kakheti is known for its cheese, especially Guda goat cheese from Tusheti. And over the past few years, artisanal cheese farmers have started operating in and around Telavi. 

Oldisi is one of them, having a manufacturing facility and a wine bar on Cholokashvili Street. They make raw milk cheese you can try in their bar, and you can book a cheese-tasting tour.

Oldisi opened in 2006 after studying in Germany and Switzerland and now produces three types of cheese: soft, hard, and semi-hard, infused with Truffle, basil, tomatoes, tarragon, cumin, pumpkin flesh, etc. 

It’s better to message them on Facebook or Instagram to book a tour or a table at the bar. During my last visit in January 2024, the bar opened at 6:30 pm. 

Drink wine at a wine bar

Most travelers coming to Kakheti typically visit wineries on various wine tours. While there’s nothing wrong with it (I also mention a few below I recommend), having a wine bar in the city is a great option to try more or simply spend a lovely evening after all the sightseeing you’ve done.

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VinoOdor is a restaurant and a wine bar/shop adjacent to the hotel of the same name. The place is quite charming, with plenty of seating area. They also have live music in the evenings from 7-8 pm. 

Their menu offers appetizers, cheese boards, main courses, pizzas, Khachapuris, and grilled dishes. They also serve bottled wine in glass and draft in a jug. We ordered a draft Khikhvi in a jug from Ibero Winery, tone bread, and Kakhetian sunflower oil as appetizers. 

Play board games at Tavsatekhi

Like any small town across Georgia, Telavi needs more social spaces or venues to spend an evening at. I asked many locals and got the same question – Telavi nightlife is pretty much nonexistent unless you go to a restaurant or a cafe. 

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Luckily, my friend and former colleague, Telavi native and photographer Giorgi Bejanishvili, created Tavsatekhi in 2019, entirely based on his and his friends’ pure passion for board games. 

The word ‘tavsatekhi’ literally translates as ‘head cracker’ and is a perfect name for a board games club.

This tiny space is like a breath of fresh air to Telavi’s youth – a venue that brings together locals to learn something new, have fun with friends, and participate in various challenges and competitions. 

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It is not only for youngsters or adults, as they have special programs for kids where they play games to develop various skills, for example, games focusing on memory and speed. 

They have a wide choice of board games for beginners and professionals. And the prices are very modest: 10 GEL covers your games for the entire evening and one drink of your choice. Any other drink or snack is for an additional price. 

What to do in Telavi: sip wine, eat goat cheese, & visit Prince’s Estate

Make Telavi your base to explore a few wineries, cheese farms, and the oldest wine cellar in Georgia, along with other monasteries and churches I provide below. 

This section covers my favorite things to do in Telavi beyond its city limits. Unless you drive a car, the most convenient and easiest way to get to these places is to order a taxi with Bolt or a local company (see the section on getting around Telavi). 

See the oldest winery in Georgia and Prince’s Estate in Tsinandali

Located only 9 km from Telavi, there’s an extraordinary palace in Tsinandali owned by Garsevan Chavchavadze, an outstanding diplomat and a politician of the Kartl-Kakheti Kingdom in the mid-18th century. He was the one King Erekle II sent to Russia to sign the Treaty of Giorgievsk in 1783. 

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His son, Aleksander, was a famous Georgian poet who turned the palace into the cultural and social center of that time’s bourgeois society. He held various events attended by significant guests from Europe and Russia, including Pushkin, Griboedov, and even Alexander Dumas.

Aleksandre is also associated with bringing the European winemaking process to Georgia and mixing it with ours. He was the first to bottle Kakhetian wine (saperavi) in European style in 1841, right here, on the estate grounds. This winery is one of the oldest and most prominent in the country, making the beverage even today.

The garden surrounding the palace is also vast and green, with unique flora imported from around the world. Aleksandre’s palace is now a House Museum of Aleksandre Chavchavadze, where you can see the family’s memorabilia, documents, photos, furniture, and outfits. Unfortunately, taking pictures is now forbidden in the House Museum, and the ones provided here are from my previous visits. 

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The back of the estate and several brick buildings are now a Radisson Collection Tsinandali Hotel, including Aleksandre’s historic enoteca. Your ticket also includes a visit to the cellar. 

To find it, walk towards the Radisson Hotel and enter the building once you are on the terrace. You should see a desk with a staff to check your ticket and pair it with an English-speaking guide. If you need help finding it, you can always ask the Radisson Hotel staff.  

We had a private tour, where a lovely lady explained how Aleksandre started the winemaking here and touched upon Georgian winemaking techniques. Then, she opened the padlock to lead us to the room full of dusty wine bottles. 

As mentioned above, the oldest bottled wine here is from 1841, but the Polish honey spirit of 1814 is even older. The shelves have plates with names and plates, and the guide gives you a few minutes to walk through and look at them. Compared to the House Museum, you can take photos here. 

  • Opening hours: Every day from 10 am to 6 pm
  • Entrance fee: adults – 10 GEL including a garden, House Museum, and enoteca. They also have a package that includes all of these, plus either one glass of Chavchavadze winery (priced at 12 GEL) or five (priced at 35 GEL). 

Savor locally produced goat cheese at Marleta’s Farm

Located only 3 km from Telavi, in the small village of Shalauri, Marleta’s Farm offers an unforgettable experience in a peaceful and artistic place one should not miss. 

Created by Sopo Gorgadze and her husband, Levan (Leo) Tsaguria, Marleta’s is not a typical farm with animals roaming around. Although, I would have loved to pat a baby goat. 

Instead, it’s more of a venue with giant murals adorning every wall on the property, while a handful of vintage furniture perfectly blends in with the surroundings. The murals called Paradise Lost are the work of Malkhaz Gorgadze, father of Sopo. 

Marleta, their first cow, was gifted to them once they moved to Shalauri village. She produced a lot of milk daily, and neighbors suggested making cheese. Leo found his passion, mastered and perfected different styles of cheeses over the years, and turned the hobby into an exciting and unique business. 

With plenty of seating areas, lounges, an in-house small library, and a cheesemaking building, Marleta’s Farm is an excellent choice to try European-style goat cheeses. 

It’s not a pop-in kind of a place, so make time to have a proper cheese tasting with a jug of family white wine and water, along with a big plate of cheeses, snacks, and nuts.

Our tasting plate included all locally made cheese resembling Georgian and European cheesemaking styles. We tried two cow’s and three goat’s milk cheeses; one had a charcoal white mold, another typical white mold, and the third resembled Tomme. The plate also included their homemade prosciutto, walnuts, pieces of melon, and honey. 

Advanced booking is required, so contact them directly on their Facebook page

Price: from 50 GEL per person

How to get there: The best way to reach the farm is by taxi or car. Ask your host to book you a cab or do it via Bolt. In the case of self-driving, the pin on Google Maps is in the right spot, so you can easily find it if you follow the directions.  

Have a wine tasting at a small family-run winery 

While the surroundings of Telavi have plenty of wineries, big or small, to choose from, I recommend visiting Togonidze’s Wine Cellar. Not only do they offer delicious, limited editions of wines, but the whole surrounding is a piece of art itself. 

The house, painted mainly white with a turquoise balcony, window frames, doors, and furniture, resembles one of the houses you see on the Greek Islands. The small pathway between the two buildings leads to the cellar while various vintage and interior decor items adorn the walls.  

Founded by a painter, Gia Togonidze, he turned his family’s homemaking wine into a business of high-quality beverages made by traditional methods. However, he doesn’t like calling it a “business”; for him, “[it’s] more affection and love [to wine] than a business.” 

Togonidze’s family makes natural and unfiltered wines following their family’s methods. The grapes they use are harvested in non-irrigated vineyards, and the end product mirrors qvevri wines with an intense amber color, tannins, and a full body. To my surprise, they are not fermented in qvevri, making them distinguished and quite unique. 

The hosts are happy to show you around, where you can see Gia’s paintings on display. His wife, Lika Kipiani, added a special touch of her own and handpainted the surfaces of most of the furniture with gorgeous patterns.  

A visit to Togonidze’s Wine Cellar typically includes tasting 4-5 wines. Gia explains how he makes his wines and what grapes he uses, followed by a delicious homecooked lunch prepared by Lika. 

After the tasting, hosts sit with you and chat about everything from wine to their house, your country, etc. The experience feels very personal and intimate, where the Georgian family wholeheartedly welcomes you, and you instantly become part of their household. 

Advanced booking is required, so contact them directly on their Facebook page

Price: 45 GEL per person

How to get there: Similar to Marleta’s Farm, the best way to reach the cellar is by taxi or car. Ask your host to book you a cab or do it via Bolt. In the case of self-driving, the pin on Google Maps is in the right spot, so you can easily find it if you follow the directions. 

Delight in biodynamic wine in Ruispiri 

If you are familiar with Georgian wine and our techniques of making it in qvevri clay vessels, visiting Ruispiri biodynamic winery might be a novelty for you. It indeed was for me. 

We make a wide range of classic or bio wines, but biodynamic is different. Biodynamic wines are produced using biodynamic methods to grow grapes and during post-harvest processing. The production uses organic farming methods, such as compost as fertilizer and avoiding pesticides. It also uses soil supplements composed according to Rudolf Steiner’s formulas. 

Created by Giorgi Aladashvili after studying in Switzerland, their wines are full of body and flavor. Currently, they produce six wines – Kisi, Khikhvi, Rkatsiteli, Kakhuri Mtsvane, Saperavi, and Grubela, an almost extinct grape type that the owners managed to revive. 

You can also find their wines at the VinoOdor bar I mentioned above or in wine shops and restaurants in Tbilisi, such as 8000 Vintages and Stamba and Rooms hotels.

While there is always someone at the venue, booking a tasting in advance is better by messaging on Facebook or Instagram

How to get there: Similar to other places, the best way to reach the cellar is by taxi or car. Ask your host to book you a cab or do it via Bolt. In the case of self-driving, the pin on Google Maps is in the right spot, so you can easily find it if you follow the directions. 

What to do in Telavi: explore nearby monasteries and churches

There are several important monasteries and churches near Telavi worth visiting. Unfortunately, there is no public transport, so the best way to see them is by car or through a pre-planned GoTrip.ge service. 

Ikalto Monastery

Ikalto Monastery is one of the oldest spiritual buildings in Kakheti, established by Saint Zenon in the 6th century. He was part of a group of Assyrian monks, like David Gareji, who also established a cave monastery complex in Udabno, a semi-desert area of Kakheti.  

The Ikalto complex includes three separate churches with a very modest design. The courtyard features dozens of different-sized qvevri scattered across its grounds, adding a distinct charm to the whole area. 

Here are the ruins of Ikalto Academy, an ecclesiastical school created between the 11th and 13th centuries and is considered one of the most important cultural-scholastic venues of medieval Georgia, along with Gelati Monastery near Kutaisi. 

The entrance is free, and the dress code is not strictly enforced. 

Alaverdi Monastery

Alaverdi Monastery, the second-tallest church in the country after Tbilisi’s Holy Trinity Cathedral, is impressive both inside and outside. 

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Founded by Joseph Alaverdeli, one of the Assyrian monks, some parts of the monastery are from the 6th century, but the current structure was built in the 11th century. 

Even though the overall size of Alaverdi monastery is smaller than Svetitskhoveli in Mtskheta, it is still an important architectural building. It is considered one of the four Great Cathedrals in Georgia, along with Bagrati in Kutaisi, Svetitskhoveli, and Oshki (now part of Turkey). 

What to do in Telavi in 2024: History, Culture & Gastronomy 45

The monks of Alaverdi also produce their wine under the Alaverdi Monastery Cellar brand in a cellar that dates back to the 10th-12th centuries. 

You can enter the grounds free of charge every day from 8 am to 6 pm. Since it is a monastery, the dress code is strict – women should cover their heads and borrow an apron skirt (if you wear a short skirt, shorts, or pants) from the shop before entering. 

Gremi Monastery

This 16th-century architectural monument, located 20 km away from Telavi, is one of the most beautiful ones, in my opinion, perched on a small hill. 

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Gremi used to be Kakheti’s capital once when Telavi briefly lost the statues during history. It was an important city, featuring a citadel, church, public baths, and bazaar scattered inside the walls of several dozens of hectares of land. 

Today, only the citadel, church, and ruins of the bathhouses remain. The museum next to the church showcases information about the kings of Kakheti. It displays some of the significant cultural artifacts of that time found during the archeological studies of the area. 

What to do in Telavi in 2024: History, Culture & Gastronomy 47

On the citadel and church territory, you can find an old wine cellar and see how people made wine in ancient times.

  • Opening hours: Tue-Sun from 10 am to 6 pm; Closed on Mondays
  • Entrance fee: adults – 10 GEL  

Nekresi Monastery

Established by one more Assyrian monk, St. Abibos Nekreseli, Nekresi Monastery is one of the prominent hermitage complexes in the region. Perched on a steep hill overlooking Alazani Valley, the monastery features various buildings built at different times.

What to do in Telavi in 2024: History, Culture & Gastronomy 48

It is part of the more significant historic site of Nekresi that, once was a flourishing city of the Late Antiquity. It was closed down when we became part of the Russian Empire through the Treaty of Giorgievsky and was only opened to the public in 2000. 

You can enter for free, wander the grounds, and remember to adhere to the dress code. Also, remember that you can’t drive up the mountain to the church. You’ll be asked to park at the parking lot and take a minibus instead, costing 1 GEL. 

My favorite Telavi restaurants, cafes, and bars

Doli: Part of Communal Hotel, Doli is one of the best restaurants in Telavi, offering tasty Georgian and Kakhetian meals. 

Kapiloni: For a local vibe and more affordable prices, Kapoloni is a local favorite. I’ve had lunch and dinner several times here, and it’s always tasty, offering staples of Georgian cuisine

Zodiaqo: With a branch in Tbilisi, Zoniaqo is known as the best place to eat Khinkali in Telavi. Besides the classic one, I recommend Nadughi (ricotta-like) cheese Khinkali served with ghee. 

Biblus Piatto: Located in the city center, the bookstore cafe serves breakfast and some of the best cheesecakes in Telavi. 

VinoOdor: Part of the hotel of the same name, this wine bar and restaurant is a great place to try local wines and sample Georgian snacks or appetizers. 

Esquisse Hotel restaurant: You can walk in for lunch or dinner even if you are not a hotel guest. The restaurant offers both Georgian and international dishes in charming seating. I’ve been here several times as a guest and walk-in visitor, and they never disappoint. 

Tavsatekhi: A board game club and bar to play various games in the evenings. They don’t have food but offer snacks instead.

My Favorite Travel Resources

To ease your travel planning, check out all the posts about Georgia travel. Additionally, here are some of the websites and services I use when preparing for my next adventure anywhere in the world.

✈ Book affordable flights on WayAway, a platform that shows the best flight deals, tours, and hotels. With a WayAway Plus membership, you can earn cashback. Get 10% off with code: RFD10

🚫 Get compensation for up to 700$ with Airhelp if your flight was canceled or delayed within the last 3 years.

🚗 Rent a car at Local Rent for affordable prices and convenient service.

❣ Pre-book a private car transfer with GoTrip from Tbilisi Airport to your hotel or any other city across Georgia.

💻 Get a VPN from Surfshark to protect your devices from hackers when using public Wi-Fi when traveling.

📱 Install the Airalo app, which provides local eSIMs for a more affordable internet connection when traveling. Get 3 USD with code: BAIA2592.

💸 Use Wise to withdraw money in local currency without hidden fees and avoid high exchange rates. On top, you might get a Visa or Mastercard debit card.

🍷 For some of the best, expat-designed wine tours check out Eat!ThisTours. Get a 5% discount with code RFD5.

🏨 Find budget-friendly deals on all sorts of accommodation types on Booking.com.

🩺 Buy the most flexible and budget-friendly travel insurance, SafetyWing, covering COVID.

☀ Book in advance some of the best city walks, cultural experiences, and day tours to maximize your stay and experience here.

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8 Comments

  1. Steve Shakeshaft says:

    Thank you for this information. I’ve only recently started hearing of Georgia as a holiday destination. I would definitely be interested in visiting with such a rich history.

  2. Hi Baia! It is interesting to see such places that are not known before. I am impressed on how you present and let your readers know about it. The photos are expressive and welcoming. 🙂 Go for it Baia!

  3. Lopota Lake Resort looks like a really cool place to stay at. I’ve heard great things about Georgia, and hopefully I will get the chance to visit there some day!

  4. I am maybe planning on going on a vacation to this place with my partner. She would love it

  5. Those images are lovely, I have never been but my husband really wants to do a bit of travelling and this definitely looks like his cuppa tea!

  6. Day trips are the best! And this one is no excpetion! I love your must do list for Telavi – so informative and interesting at the same time

  7. Elizabeth O says:

    So many information you shared through your article and I’m planning my vacations. I think now I know where I should head to.

  8. Telavi looks lovely. In fact, Georgia is on my radar this year. Thanks for this inspiring post. 🙂

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