Tushetian Cuisine: 7 Traditional Foods & Drinks to Discover

Tushetian cuisine traditionally revolves around the products of sheep farming and the limited, less fertile fields. Essential components include meat, milk, and their derivatives, whether from cows or sheep. However, modern times also brought vegetarian and plant-based meals to the region. This detailed post about the food in Tusheti brings the staples of traditional Tushetian cuisine you must try when traveling in Tusheti. 

Unlike many meals from other regions of Georgia, such as Samegrelo, Imereti, and Kakheti, Tushetian (and Meskhetian) cuisine is rare at restaurants in Tbilisi. Therefore, traveling to Tusheti is one of the only options for savoring its authentic food. 

The local cuisine heavily relies on wheat and other grains for preparing bread, curd/cheese Kachapuri, and meat-filled dumplings. 

Local herbs are a fundamental element in Tushetian cuisine, offering a distinctive flavor profile. Kindzi, or coriander, sourced from its natural habitat or cultivated in gardens, is a traditional staple in Georgia and Tusheti. 

When visiting Tusheti, most guesthouses include a few traditional Tushetian foods in their meal packages. Most of the dishes I have included in this post were served as dinner or breakfast at the guesthouses I have stayed in during my trips.

→ Read: Complete guide to Georgian cuisine: more than 37 foods to try

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7 foods and drinks from Tushetian cuisine to try

Gudis Kveli 

Tusheti is famous for its unique salty cheese maturing within inverted sheepskin, known as Gudis Kveli, which stands as a symbol of Tushetian cuisine. Guda in Georgian refers to a bag prepared from sheep or veel skin, while Kveli is cheese in Georgian. 

Storing and maturing cheese in Guda gives it a distinctive smell and flavor. Generous slices of Gudis Kveli accompany every meal, including breakfast.

Not every Georgian likes Gudis Kveli because of its smell or taste, but those who do pair it with well-riped tomatoes and a hot, out-of-oven Shoti or Tone bread. If you haven’t tried the combo yet, remember to do it! 

Many shops and supermarkets sell Gudis Kveli in Tbilisi. However, for authentic Gudis Kveli, I suggest Agrohab and Tserti. You can also order it online from Soplidan – an agro market that sources produce from various farms nationwide. Now the products of Soplidan are only available at the Veli.store, which delivers them within 3 hours. 

Tushuri Khinkali 

Georgia’s famous dumplings have roots in the mountains, with the Tushetian version being one of the originals. It has a thicker dough and simple filling compared to other regional variants. 

Tushetian Khinkali typically has lamb or beef meat with a touch of cumin and no additional spices or herbs. A vegetarian version is also available with potato filling. 

Kotori

Kotori is Tushetian Khachapuri stuffed with salt-free cheese or curd, making it one of the signature items of Tushetian cuisine. It has a round shape, similar to the Imeretian one, but unlike any other Georgian Khachapuri, it is very thin, almost like a pancake. 

And instead of baking, Kotori is pan-fried, finished with brushing a knob of butter on top. Therefore, it is slightly oilier than others. 

Gunda, a restaurant in Tbilisi that offers a wide array of regional Khachapuris, also has Kotori on its menu. 

Khavitsi

Khavitsi is another staple of Tushetian cuisine and is analogous to fondue. It is made from curd mixed with clarified butter, resulting in a rich cheesy dip, and served hot in a skillet or pan.

Shepherds use the solidified version of Khavitsi as a valuable energy source suitable for storage and portability.

Kalti

Kalti is one of my favorite dairy products of Tushetian cuisine. Made from the leftover whey after making cow or sheep cheese, Kalti is an aged cottage cheese. 

The whey is heated (usually over a wood fire) and stirred with a wooden spoon so the curd does not stick to the bottom of the pot. The solid substance is then dried in canvas bags. 

Tushs may use it for Kotori or prepare a different version of Khavitsi. For drying, raw Kalti balls are laid out on boards, rubbed with salt, and then placed in guda – the inverted sheepskin. 

Kalt has a sharp smell, a crumbly consistency, and a tangy taste. Dried Kalti has a long shelf life and is perfectly paired with mountain Araki (vodka) or beer. However, I must say it also goes well with certain types of Georgian wines. 

Most locals prepare it in small quantities only for their consumption as it is an ideal product for shepherds to carry on their endeavors and seasonal migration of the livestock. 

Therefore, only a few guesthouses may offer this as part of their breakfast, lunch, or dinner packages. Ask your host if she knows someone who sells it. That’s who I got mine that I even brought home. 

Beqkondris Chai

Beqkondari is a name of wild kondari or summer savory that Tushs use to make tea. Tiny purple kondari flowers are also often called wild thyme. This unique Georgian beverage is exclusive to the highlands and is my favorite staple of Tushetian cuisine and herbal tea. 

If you find ‘Tushetian tea’ on the menu or posted as a sign at the guesthouses, remember that it’s the beqkondris chai and always stop to try. 

A perfect place to enjoy hot beqkondris chai is at a cafe perched at Apano Pass when traveling from Tbilisi to Tusheti. 

In Shenako, a delightful lady named Asmati Kurdgheladze offers dried herbs for sale. Her selection includes wild herbs like beqkondari, daisies, salvia, mint, and various others.

Aludi

Homemade beer Aludi is a festive beverage traditionally crafted from mountain barley and wild hops. It is brewed for religious events in dedicated facilities where women are typically not allowed. 

Aludi is a fermented beverage reminiscent of kombucha in taste and slight fizzing. It has a light, earthy flavor and almost no alcohol. 

Some guesthouses, such as Qeto’s in Dartlo, serve it by the glass. I also bought half a liter from a neighbor of the guesthouse (Old Omalo) where I stayed. She had a poster on the gate, so look for the signs in different villages. 

While most guesthouses may not serve wine or beer (Guesthouse Old Omalo, where I stayed, would give us a bottle of homemade wine each dinner), they offer other high-alcoholic drinks, such as Araki (vodka), chacha, or spirits infused with herbs such as tarragon.

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