Tbilisi to Tusheti in 2024: Detailed Tusheti Transport Guide

Tusheti, a remote mountain region, is one of Georgia’s most breathtaking, thrilling, and pristine destinations. However, it is also one of the country’s most challenging areas to access. The road from Tbilisi to Tusheti (more specifically from Pshaveli village) is even named one of the world’s most dangerous roads. This complete guide on how to get to Tusheti provides detailed information. 

The Tusheti road, officially known as the Pshaveli-Abano-Omalo road, commences its journey in the lowlands of Kakheti and concludes at the village of Omalo, lodged within the borders of Tusheti National Park.

Initially built in the 1980s and relatively unchanged since (except for a few minor restorations), the road presents a challenging terrain. It is rugged and lacks pavement, featuring numerous steep ascents that may sometimes necessitate reversing the vehicle. 

It crosses multiple cascading waterfalls along the route and is flanked by a mountain slope prone to landslides and washing down slate rocks. For most of the trip, the road perilously hugs the edge of steep drop-offs, leaving little room for passing other vehicles.

The mere thought of a dangerously thin road carved into the sheer side of a mountain is enough to deter many travelers from traveling to Tusheti Protected Areas. Tragic road accidents occur yearly, as evidenced by the crosses and memorials dedicated to those who lost their lives lining the route.

Beyond the road’s condition, the unpredictable weather and occasional driver-related issues add further complexity to the journey. It’s a path that demands careful consideration and is not for everyone. Nevertheless, if you do it correctly, the trip from Tbilisi to Tusheti will be one of the most memorable journeys in Georgia. 

Read: My complete Tusheti Travel Guide packed with the latest information, tips, and things to do.

The road to Tusheti National Park

The sole road to Tusheti is an unsealed road starting from Pshaveli village in Kakheti and finishing in Omalo, the central town of Tusheti. As no conventional public transportation is available, your means of travel must be a private 4WD vehicle (more on this below).

This winding mountain road is 70 km long and traverses through the Abano Pass at 2,850 meters above sea level. The journey typically spans 5 to 6 hours, depending on the traffic. On my last visit in the summer of 2023, it took us 4:30-5 hours with two short stops, and the road was traffic-free. 

Generally, Tusheti is a seasonal destination; therefore, the road to Tusheti is also seasonal, with a limited timeframe when the road is open. Typically, the season opens in mid-June and lasts till the end of September. Beyond this timeframe, the region becomes inaccessible due to heavy snow and ice.

The vistas along the pass are nothing short of breathtaking! As you navigate the route, you’ll be surrounded by meandering rivers, dense pine forests, and picturesque alpine meadows. Keep an eye out; you might even glimpse majestic eagles soaring above!

Driving along the cliffs can be unnerving, especially when encountering oncoming vehicles. The road primarily remains narrow, demanding some deft maneuvering skills.

I have been to Tusheti twice. My first trip was incredibly overwhelming and nerve-wracking, but I sat in the car calmly on my second trip. Most drivers traverse this road several times a week, some even a few times a day, so they are well-acquainted with its twists and turns. 

I never felt unsafe throughout both journeys, even as I glanced at the sheer cliffs. However, it could be nerve-wracking for those unaccustomed to such driving. I felt slightly uncomfortable during my first trip as we were wrapped in a dense layer of fog and mist for quite some time, which is expected due to the Alpine climate. 

Concerns about potential dangers might drain your enthusiasm for visiting Tusheti. Nevertheless, the likelihood of encountering issues is relatively low. I even spotted some brave cyclists and motorbikers conquering this challenging road. 

Believe me when I say that the thrill is entirely worth it! By exercising caution, refraining from speeding, or taking unnecessary risks, this journey will undoubtedly stand as one of the most enchanting experiences during your visit to Georgia!

While I plan on updating this guide as needed, if you find that prices or any information provided here changed, I’d appreciate it if you reached out and left a comment below. 

Tbilisi to Tusheti quick info

Omalo is the central village in Tusheti you encounter when you enter the Tusheti National Park. With plenty of accommodation options and relatively better infrastructure than other villages, many travelers base in Omalo before embarking on different journeys across the area. 

Distance: Tbilisi to Omalo spans approximately 190 kilometers. Telavi is 98 km from Omalo, while Kvemo Alvani, the nearest town, is 77 km away. 

Travel time: while the distance to Tusheti is not significant, the challenging road conditions restrict travel speed to a maximum of 30 km/h.

On average, the journey from Tbilisi to Tusheti takes around 8 hours. This includes approximately 2-2:30 hours to reach Kvemo Alvani via the Gombori Pass and an additional 5-6 hours to arrive at Omalo.

It takes around 3 hours to reach Abano Pass from Kvemo Alvani and then another 2 hours to get to Omalo. The return trip from Tusheti to Kakheti is quicker.

However, the pace of the journey can significantly vary depending on various aspects, such as road and weather conditions, traffic volume, and the type of vehicle used. Moreover, remember that there might be a few stops along the way. 

During my last trip, we only stopped twice – once at the waterfall and then at Abano Pass to have a picnic and drink local tea at a cafe. And it took us around 4:30-5 hours from Kvemo Alvani to Omalo. 

If you’re using a shared taxi, expect potential wait times in Alvani or Telavi for your transfer.

Road safety: It’s worth noting that the primary safety concern in Tusheti doesn’t solely lie with the condition of the road itself but rather with the drivers and their vehicles. Regrettably, fatal accidents occur annually, some involving tourists, and alcohol is a recurring factor in many of these incidents. 

In the past, when this road was even worse and more dangerous than it is now, many drivers would drink alcohol to calm their nerves and become braver before embarking on the drive to tackle the rugged terrain. However, you might think it has changed as the road conditions slightly improved, but sadly, no. 

Opting for travel in a well-equipped car with a sober and professional driver is crucial. On both of my trips to Tusheti, I had a sober and well-skilled driver. More on the drivers and who to contact is below. 

According to the governmental initiation and allocation of 100 million GEL, the road to Tusheti should improve by 2025. 

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Should you drive on your own to Tusheti? 

While I have seen a lot of people traveling from Tbilisi to Tusheti by car independently, including foreigners with camper vans, I still think you need to stick to getting a driver. 

I advise self-driving to Tusheti only if you have substantial expertise driving in Georgia and venturing through mountainous landscapes. 

A sedan is unsuitable for the trip to Tusheti and demands a 4WD vehicle such as a Delica, Jeep, or a similar car.

Furthermore, most rental car agencies explicitly forbid using their vehicles on this particular road. 

The phone reception is very spotty along the road, so if something breaks down, you need to be capable of fixing it independently.

Tbilisi to Tusheti with a private driver

Traveling from Tbilisi to Tusheti with a private driver is the best and safest option, less time-consuming and overwhelming. However, it can only fit some people’s budget. Therefore, an alternative version using public transport is in the next section.

You can hire a private driver to pick you up from Tbilisi and take you directly to your guesthouse in Tusheti. 

When hiring a driver, it’s advisable to rely on recommendations from reliable sources, such as a professional driver experienced with the Tusheti road or a local driver suggested by your guesthouse.

Option one: ask your guesthouse to arrange a transfer from Tbilisi to Tusheti and inquire about the price in advance. 

Option two: ask around among other travelers who’ve traveled from Tbilisi to Tusheti recently if they have the contact number of the driver they had. You can also ask on Facebook groups such as Expats in Tbilisi or Georgian Wanderers. 

Option three: join an organized tour to Tusheti that includes transportation with a professional driver from Tbilisi to Tusheti and vice versa. I visited Tusheti for the second time with an organized tour by my friend Magdalena (Magda) Konik, a Polish photographer who runs a tour company, ISARI, in Tusheti. 

Option four: get a transfer only to Tusheti from Tbilisi with a tour company offering this service separately. You can contact my friend Magda for transport-only assistance as well. 

Note: Unfortunately, GoTrip, a private driver service in Georgia, doesn’t work in Tusheti. 

Traveling from Tbilisi to Tusheti will extend your journey by at least 2 hours. Therefore, it might be more convenient for you to stay overnight in Telavi and begin the trip first thing in the morning. Here is my Telavi city guide on what to see and do in the central city of Kakheti. 

If you arrange a transfer through your guesthouse, you’ll likely share the vehicle with other travelers. The starting point for the transfer can be either Tbilisi, Telavi, or Alvani, so make sure you ask that as well. 

Generally, the cost is approximately 100 GEL per person one way for a minivan such as Delica from Alvani to Omalo. Add another 100-150 GEL if traveling from Tbilisi. 

Tbilisi to Tusheti with public transport & shared taxi

Since there are no direct public transport or marshrutkas traveling from Tbilisi to Tusheti, you’d need to divide your trip into two parts – getting from Tbilisi to a nearby town with a marshrutka and then taking a shared minivan taxi. 

This option is budget-friendly but less convenient and time-consuming, taking into consideration wait times. 

Tbilisi to Telavi or Alvani 

Start your journey by taking a marshrutka from Tbilisi to Alvani or Telavi. Marshrutkas depart from Tbilisi Central Bus Station at Ortachala thrice daily. Arrive early to secure a seat and purchase your ticket from the ticket office before boarding. The fare from Tbilisi to Alvani or Tekavi is 12-15 GEL. You can also check the schedule and purchase tickets at Biletebi.ge. 

Alternatively, shared sedan taxis are near the Isani metro station to take you to Alvani or Telavi. Taxis to Telavi cost 20 GEL and approximately 30-35 GEL to Alvani. 

However, you must wait for other passengers to fill the car. You can also negotiate a bit for the private transfer. 

If you travel with a family or as a group, securing a GoTrip driver from Tbilisi to Telavi or directly to Alvani could be beneficial and comfortable. The prices start from 115 GEL and 153 GEL respectively. 

The journey from Tbilisi to Alvani takes over 2 hours via a Gombori Pass. Ensure you ask the driver to drop you off at Kvemo Alvani. 

Typically, the shared taxis to Tusheti depart from Kvemo Alvani, but you might also find some at Telavi Bus Station. If not, you can easily find a taxi to take you to Alvani for an additional 15-20 GEL per person. Kvemo Alvani from Telavi is around 35-40 minutes away.

Shared taxi from Alvani to Tusheti

Drivers gather at the main junction in Kvemo Alvani to pick up passengers. They typically time their departures to overlap with marshrutkas arriving in Alvani, with the first departing around noon and the final around 3 pm.

Take the earliest marshrutka or the shared taxi from Tbilisi to Alvani, and then catch the earliest shared minivan to Tusheti. 

Important: you’ll find several small grocery stores and a pharmacy in Alvani, so if you forgot something, this is the place to get it. The only ATM for your trip to Tusheti is also here if you need to withdraw a bit more cash, although I recommend doing it in Tbilisi and not relying on the ATM in Alvani.  

Shared taxis from Alvani to Tusheti cost around 100 GEL per person. During the off-season, outside July and August, you can negotiate a bit of a discount. 

Upon arriving in Tusheti, the driver will drop you off in Omalo. Ensure you ask if they’ll drive you to your booked place or if you need to walk from the drop-off spot. 

Getting around in Tusheti

Public transportation services don’t exist in Tusheti. If you don’t have a vehicle, a personal driver, or any plans to hike between villages, your most practical choice is coordinating taxi transfers via your guesthouses. 

For instance, securing a taxi ride from Omalo to Dartlo village may amount to 200-250 GEL for the entire car, with the added benefit of the driver remaining on standby for your return journey.

Although hitchhiking may be a conceivable option on select roads, I strongly discourage accepting rides from unfamiliar drivers. The road conditions between the villages are just as demanding as the main road, so prioritizing road safety should always be the paramount concern.

Tusheti to Tbilisi return trip

Returning from Tusheti to Tbilisi typically involves several stages unless you have a private driver.

Begin by arranging a private or shared taxi to Kvemo Alvani. Your guesthouse in Tusheti can assist you in securing a driver if you haven’t made prior arrangements. 

Most drivers depart from Omalo, so if you’re staying in a different village, you must return there first.

From Kvemo Alvani, you can proceed directly to Tbilisi if you time it right. Currently, at least three vans are available daily, with one departing Alvani at 2 pm.

Suppose you miss the direct marshrutka from Alvani to Tbilisi. In that case, your best bet is to get to Telavi Bus Station with a taxi for an additional cost, as marshrutkas and shared taxis from Telavi to Tbilisi are more frequent. 

Different ways to experience Tusheti

If you’re more adventurous and seek genuinely unique experiences, alternative ways exist to explore the Tusheti region rather than taking the typical road.

One option is to embark on a hiking adventure from the neighboring Khevsureti region. A marked trail spans from Shatili to Omalo via the Atsunta Pass, a journey that takes approximately five days and involves camping.

For a unique experience, you can also follow the seasonal migration of livestock from late May, where you travel and live with shepherds, who take different ways consisting of more vertical and thinner paths to travel from the lowlands up to Tusheti for the summer. Some tour companies offer guided transhumance experiences, immersing you in this traditional journey.

If you want to explore an alternative route to Tusheti, you can traverse the terrain on horseback, commencing your journey from Pankisi Valley. This horseback expedition typically takes about five days.

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