17 Essential Things to Do in Bolnisi and Nearby

Bolnisi isn’t on most people’s radar, but that’s precisely what makes it such an interesting destination. Just an hour’s drive from Tbilisi, this town and its Kvemo Kartli (Lower Kartli) region are rich in stories, culture, and landscapes that few travelers take the time to explore.

This region claims some serious titles: the earliest known traces of Hominin life outside Africa (in nearby Dmanisi, dating back 1.85 million years), the oldest archaeological evidence of winemaking in the world (Gadachrili Gora, 6000 BC), and the most significant German settlement in historic Georgia, known as Katharinenfeld (also called Ekaterinenfeld) during the 19th century.

Today, Bolnisi and neighboring Asureti still hold architectural and cultural echoes of that era, with typical timbered houses with wooden balconies, Lutheran churches, former wine cellars, and local grape type cultivated by Germans called Shala, which you’ll struggle to find elsewhere.

Beyond Bolnisi, the region is home to medieval fortresses, sweeping valleys, rugged canyons, and the oldest churches that make this corner of Georgia deliver more than you’d expect.

In my Bolnisi travel guide, you’ll find everything you need to plan your visit—from the history of Katharinenfeld to things to do in Bolnisi or the wider Kvemo Kartli region to tips on where to eat, drink wine, and stay.

Don’t miss my Bolnisi map, packed with all the top sights outlined here to make the most of your visit.

Disclaimer: Some of the links in this post are affiliate links, which means I may earn a small commission if you buy something through them—at no extra cost to you. It helps support my blog and lets me share real, first-hand travel tips. Learn more

Brief history of Katharinenfeld

The town we now know as Bolnisi was once called Katharinenfeld—a settlement founded by 95 German colonists from Württemberg in 1818 whilst part of the Georgia Governorate of the Russian Empire.

Named after Queen Katharina of Württemberg, it was one of the first two German colonies in the South Caucasus.

The early years were tough. In 1826, Kurdish, Persian, and Turkish raiders attacked the village, killing many German settlers and destroying homes. Still, with state support, the community rebuilt and eventually thrived. 

By the mid-19th century, Katharinenfeld had a flourishing German quarter with a large Evangelical Lutheran church and a strong music, education, and craftsmanship tradition.

Viticulture played a significant role in its prosperity. The German settlers learned winemaking techniques from Georgian growers in Tsinandali (near Telavi) and Mukhrani, blending local traditions with their own.

As early as 1830, a German settler named Schall successfully cultivated wild grape varieties that proved well-suited to the local climate. The result was a new grape, Schala or Shala, which played a key role in the success of winemaking in Asureti and Bolnisi.

Germans in Katherinenfeld also ran a cooperative winery and were known for their fruit farming, mills, and barrel-making. By the early 1900s, the village had its own hospital, school, theatre, and cultural clubs.

The peaceful life came to an abrupt end in 1941 when most of the German population was deported to Siberia and Kazakhstan during WWII. Only a few families, particularly those married to Georgians, were spared.

The village was renamed several times over the century. In 1916, during World War I, it was called Ekaterinovka. A few years later, in 1921, the communist authorities changed the name again, to Luxemburg in honor of the Polish-German revolutionary Rosa Luxemburg. And finally becoming Bolnisi in 1943.

Despite the hardships, the legacy of Katharinenfeld lives on in Bolnisi’s architecture, old Lutheran buildings, and even its wine culture.

The German quarter is still walkable today, offering a glimpse into the lives of those early German colonists in Georgia who helped shape this corner of the country into a unique and historically rich destination.

Things to do in Bolnisi city & beyond

At first glance, Bolnisi may seem like a quiet town, but if you know where to look, it’s full of fascinating places to explore. From ancient history to layered cultural heritage, this compact area in the Kvemo Kartli region offers more than most visitors expect.

In this section, you’ll find everything you can do in the city itself and a bit beyond its borders to grasp the complete picture of the historical significance of the entire region.

Don’t miss my Google Maps list of the attractions and sights outlined here to save for easy navigation. Read through the essential tips when visiting Bolnisi and where to eat and stay, all listed below.

Travel through a million years at the Bolnisi Museum

If you only visit one museum in Kvemo Kartli, make it this one. The Bolnisi Museum offers an unexpectedly powerful journey through time, offering an immersive look into more than a million years of human history without being overwhelmed.

The exhibits are thoughtfully designed across four halls, covering a different chapter in the region’s past.

It opens with early hominin life and archaeological finds from nearby Dmanisi—home to the oldest traces of human presence outside Africa. The open graveyard of beautifully lit and presented human bones is a pretty stunning illustration of evidence.

The museum takes you through the Stone, Bronze, and Iron Ages with impressively curated tools, pottery, and early crafts.

The third hall shifts the focus to medieval Georgia, showcasing rare manuscripts, 5th-century Georgian inscriptions, and even tombstones with Arabic epitaphs, revealing the region’s complex, multicultural history.

One of the highlights is a copy of The Knight in the Panther’s Skin printed in 1712—once a prized dowry item in Georgian households—and a commemorative edition of The Martyrdom of Saint Shushanik, the oldest surviving Georgian literary work, taught at Georgian schools in the 9th-10th grades.

The final hall explores the 19th-century history of Bolnisi as a German colony, featuring personal items, photographs, and a massive migration map wall to visualize their journey. It’s a sobering and fascinating look at the lives of the German settlers who helped shape the area.

In 2022, the Bolnisi Museum was nominated for the European Museum of the Year Award, a recognition that speaks not only to its thoughtful curatorial approach but also to its striking architecture—an angular metal structure designed by Gaga Kiknadze that boldly stands out against the surrounding landscape.

• Opening hours: Tue-Sun from 9:30 am to 5:30 pm; Closed on Mondays
• Entrance fee: adults – 8 GEL for Georgian citizens; 20 GEL for foreigners. 

Stroll through Katharinenfeld’s German Quarter

The preserved German quarter feels like a living museum. With over 400 preserved houses dating back two centuries, this part of town still reflects the legacy of the German settlers.

The oldest part of the settlement is centered around today’s Shota Rustaveli, Giorgi Saakadze, King Pharnavaz (Parnavaz Mepe), Merab Kostava, and Egnate Ninoshvili streets.

Many of the houses on King Pharnavaz Street are officially recognized as cultural monuments, and walking past them offers a glimpse into 19th-century life in the South Caucasus. I walk you through these houses in detail below.

Unfortunately, unlike King Parnavaz and Giorgi Saakadze streets, the rest feature only a few examples of preserved German timbered houses, and many are renovated and remodeled.

As you walk along, you’ll find helpful information boards, mainly on King Parnavaz Street, in Georgian, German, and English, sharing historical context. These were installed with the support of the Council of Europe and are especially helpful for self-guided visits.

Don’t miss these houses on King Pharnavaz Street

Many of the town’s most architecturally significant houses are located here, each telling a story through balconies, facades, and timber-framed gables.

These are some of the most noteworthy stops you shouldn’t miss, with brief information on who owned it or its original purpose:

King Parnavaz Street 15 – Walker House III

This single-story building, constructed in the late 19th century, was one of the residences of the Walker family.

It has a semi-cylindrical tile-roofed basement, a high attic, and two wooden balconies facing the courtyard.

A side entrance to the backyard once existed but is now blocked by a later extension. The courtyard also contains remnants of another building and a storehouse, with the entire structure supported by a stone wall due to the sloped terrain.

King Parnavaz Street 27 – Schmied House

Built in the 1860s by the Schmied family, this house has retained much of its original form. The expansive wooden balcony along the courtyard side stretches across the facade.

Now in a disrepair state, this house is an excellent example of how these houses were built, their layers, and the materials used.

King Parnavaz Street 30 – Large Allmendinger Residence

One of the largest historical homes in Bolnisi, this two-story house belonged to the Allmendinger family and featured 16 rooms.

Due to the slope of the terrain, the building is one story from the courtyard. The gable-side balcony is split into three sections, with the central portion used as a semi-open veranda.

The cellar beneath is complex, with varying levels and construction styles—the central section alone spans two levels, with a vaulted ceiling below.

King Parnavaz Street 36 – Wegner House

This mid-19th-century house once belonged to winegrowers Gottlob and Imanuel Wegner. Built with classic timber framing, the home features a tiled roof and a spacious cellar still lined with old wine barrels.

It features beautifully preserved red oak floors and ornate metal cylinder stoves.

King Parnavaz Street 38–40 – Sackmann House

In the early 19th century, this house was home to winegrower Fritz Sackmann. The street-facing rooms were used for living, while the courtyard side held storage and workspaces.

The half-timbered gables are decorated with red brick patterns—diamond and triangular shapes stand out in particular.

A wooden balcony extends the length of the courtyard side, ending in a staircase that leads down into a spacious, multi-level cellar with varied ceiling types.

King Parnavaz Street 42 – Allmendinger House

Wine merchant Eduard Allmendinger built this one-story house in the first half of the 19th century. The elongated inner courtyard still retains part of its original stone paving.

Along the courtyard side runs a full-length wooden balcony, which once sat on a stone base but has since been heavily modified.

The building is half-timbered, and the cellar spans the entire ground level.

King Parnavaz Street 44 – Walker House II

Built for the Walker family, this two-story residence dates to the late 19th century.

Both facades on the upper floor feature extended wooden balconies. The short rear gable is finished in a half-timbered style.

The attic served dual purposes—a living space in the front and storage in the back. A vaulted wine cellar lies beneath, accessible from the eastern side, and most of the original bricks remain intact.

King Parnavaz Street 46 – Walker House Complex

Built around the turn of the 20th century, this sprawling residence once belonged to merchant Georg Walker, the same family that owned the above house.

The structure comprises three adjoining buildings, connected at both the front and back by open wooden balconies. Each section has its own high attic under a tiled roof, and the gables feature distinctive balconies.

The cellar spaces are built on different levels. The lowest room has a vaulted stone ceiling, while the others use heavy wooden beams.

The complex once housed a pharmacy and textile shop run by Joseph Allmendinger.

King Parnavaz Street 41 – Former Village Administration

Initially built in the 1840s, this single-story structure was the village’s administrative building. It had a community hall, offices, and a basement prison cell.

A second floor was added in the 1920s, and the building functioned as a secondary Armenian school until the 1990s.

One of the gables was constructed in a half-timbered style and lined with red bricks.

The courtyard is walled in, and the building is now recognized as a protected architectural monument.

King Parnavaz Street 47 – Breuninger House

Franz Breuninger, a winegrower, owned this two-story residence. Its gabled roof is constructed in a half-timbered style and covered with narrow tiles.

On the courtyard-facing side, a narrow wooden balcony leads to an entrance still accessible by an outdoor staircase.

The cellar beneath the west side of the house features a vaulted stone ceiling and built-in air shafts. An old wine press, a relic from the house’s original use, is still tucked away in the corner.

King Parnavaz Street 50 – Krämer House

Situated at a road junction near what was once the town’s central square, this two-story house belonged to carpenter Johannes Krämer.

The upper floor features three wooden balconies—one decorated with carved ornaments and figures, another with sculpted railings, and a third with simple beams.

Below the southern section lies a vaulted cellar once used for agricultural purposes, with rectangular air shafts built into the walls.

Evangelical Lutheran Church of Katharinenfeld

Standing at the end of Giorgi Saakadze Street, this church was built in 1854 and was a religious center for the community until Soviet rule took hold.

Like many buildings of its kind, it was stripped of its original function and repurposed multiple times—as a warehouse, cinema, a club, and eventually a sports hall since 1989.

The bell tower was demolished in the 1940s, and various additions were made to the facade and side walls.

Still, the church’s elongated gable roof and the outline of its segmented nave and altar space from King Parnavaz Street hint at the building’s past importance.

The facade now features typical Soviet bas-reliefs of various sports, probably those taught here back then.

I was curious enough to step inside for a quick look. The once-sacred space has been repurposed into a boxing gym, complete with an arena, punching bags, and even a couple of basketball hoops.

Along the hallway walls hang photos, most likely of the teams that train here. There’s also a small chess club named Nona, after Georgia’s legendary grandmaster, Nona Gaprindashvili.

Find the only remaining graveyard of Germans

Tucked away at the corner of St. Nino and Merab Kostava streets, a minor memorial marks what’s left of Bolnisi’s original German cemetery.

Most of it has long disappeared, but around eight gravestones remain—weathered, worn, and easy to overlook if you’re not explicitly looking for them.

The site now serves as a Memorial to German emigrants and their heirs, a quiet space that feels almost forgotten.

The inscriptions on the stones have faded over time; only a few details, like dates, are still legible. If you read German and look closely, you can make out some names, though most are hard to decipher.

Peek or stay at the restored Kötzle Mill 

Make your way to the beautifully restored Kötzle Mill, now home to Deutsche Mühle—a boutique hotel.

Set right on the banks of the Mashavera River, the complex is surrounded by greenery, an outdoor terrace, shaded seating, and a relaxed garden feel.

Its massive restaurant used to serve walk-in guests and those who’d stay here overnight, but now it only serves breakfast for its guests, and the restaurant is closed for lunch or dinner.

The restoration is the work of Depta Achim, a German entrepreneur who had long dreamed of bringing new life to an old building. When he discovered the remains of the Kötzle Mill in Bolnisi—his Georgian wife’s hometown—he knew he’d found the right place.

Blending tradition with modern comfort, the building retains its historic exterior, while the interior has been transformed with a warm yet simple design.

Visit the Georgian-German Wine House

If you want to experience Bolnisi’s wine culture in one place, head to the Georgian-German Wine House.

Initially built in 1915, this elegant structure once belonged to Immanuel Walker, a local writer and founder of Katharinenfeld’s Union of Viticulturists and Winemakers.

He was a passionate advocate for education and wine, helping shape cultural life in the colony while revitalizing the local wine industry.

By 1908, his winegrowers’ union had become so successful that members exported their wines across Georgia and beyond.

Today, his former home has been carefully restored into a hub for Bolnisi’s modern-day winemakers.

With support from RMG and the Union for the Protection of German Cultural Heritage in the South Caucasus, the building reopened as a space for tastings, events, and community gatherings. It’s one of the best examples of Georgian-German architectural fusion in town.

Inside, you’ll find wines from over 30 small family producers across the Bolnisi region. Since 2019, Bolnisi wine (or Bolnuri) has held PDO (Protected Designation of Origin) status, recognizing its distinct terroir and centuries-old winemaking heritage introduced by German Swabians.

The local, Bolnuri, wines here are all dry, ranging in color from white and amber to rosé and red, with grapes like Rkatsiteli, Chinuri, Goruli Mtsvane, Saperavi, Tavkveri, Shavkapito, and the lesser-known Asuretuli Shala all on offer.

They do local wine tastings, but you must schedule at least a day in advance. The house can also provide food, but this also needs to be booked in advance.

Step into Bolnisi’s hidden German wine cellars for wine-tasting

Scattered around the town are dozens of 19th-century German wine cellars, some built with two tiers: an upper level and a much deeper lower cellar, often extending further underground than a typical Georgian marani. Others are single-level but still built in the traditional German style.

While there are more than 50 cellars in Bolnisi, only a handful are open to visitors, so booking ahead (around 3-4 days in advance) is essential. In some rare cases, it’s possible to pop in for a quick tasting without food if the owners are home and feel like hosting.

For the whole Bolnisi wine experience, nothing beats visiting a family-run home winery to indulge in artisan wines alongside traditional food, mainly Georgian, sometimes with German touches, depending on the host.

However, note that many might not speak English or have little knowledge of the language. Also, make sure you ask for the menu in advance when making the reservations.

Here are a few of the wineries worth having a Bolnuri wine and dinner experience:

• Dzmebis Marani – Their two-story cellar has a wide range of Georgian and German-style wines.
• Shalo’s Cellar – One more two-story cellar serving homemade German ham and wine made with the German technique.
• Levan Kukchishvili Wine Cellar – Delicious home-cooked food.
• Khmelo Wine Cellar – Serves excellent wines.

If you’re up for an immersive experience beyond just sipping wine, check out this German Cellars, Bolnisi, Dmanisi & Asureti Food & Wine Tour by my friends and partners at Eat This! Tours.

This full-day small-group tour takes you deep into the region’s German heritage through visits to Bolnisi’s restored wine cellars and family-run wineries. It finishes up in Asureti – another former German village.

You’ll taste around 10 German-style and Georgian traditional wines with a packed lunch with homemade dishes and get plenty of stories and context from a knowledgeable local guide.

Attend the Bolnisi PDO Wine Festival

If you’re planning a late spring or early summer visit, schedule a time with the Bolnisi PDO Wine Festival, one of the top Georgian wine festivals, to experience regional Protected Designation of Origin wines.

Held in the heart of the German quarter, this annual gathering brings together more than 60 winemakers nationwide, strongly focusing on small family-run producers.

While you’ll get to taste PDO wines from different microzones, make sure to start with those labeled Bolnuri, the local PDO. Winemakers here use various techniques—both Georgian and German—so it’s a great way to experience the diversity in flavor and style.

One standout is Shala, which is not always easy to find outside Bolnisi or Asureti, making the festival the perfect place to try.

The event also features a wine competition, live music, food stalls, and local craft vendors.

• Date: late spring/early summer
• Entrance: FREE | More info

Try German-style Beer

While Georgia’s brewing history dates back to the Bronze Age, beer has always played second place to wine, except in areas like Bolnisi and other former German settlements and the mountains of Georgia, like Khevsureti or Tusheti.

When German immigrants settled here in the 19th century, they brought their beer-making traditions, adding another layer to the city’s cultural mix.

Today, a small central brewery keeps that legacy alive with German-style beers that are surprisingly good.

The facility is modern and low-key—you can pick up draft bottled beer or head next door to Marani restaurant, where they serve fresh at very reasonable prices.

I don’t quite recommend eating here, and see the reason below in the Where to Eat section. 

Spot the Bolnisi landmarks bas-relief

As you enter the denser residential part of Bolnisi, near the Allmendinger Bolnisi Hotel, keep an eye out for a large bas-relief that’s easy to overlook if you’re not paying attention (my city map below has the exact spot).

It depicts key sites across the Bolnisi municipality—castles, fortresses, and churches—carved into a single concrete panel.

There’s no signage in Georgian or English, and I couldn’t find any information on it; however, the work feels like a product of the Soviet era.

Even without context, it’s an impressive piece of local craftsmanship and makes for a quick and worthwhile stop, especially if you’re into Soviet public art or offbeat details most travelers miss.

See a striking mosaic & glimpse inside an abandoned cinema

As you continue further into the city, one of the first things to catch your eye is a colorful, well-preserved mosaic of Sulkhan-Saba Orbeliani on the facade of the old cinema building.

A 17th-century writer, diplomat, and one of Georgia’s first literary figures, Orbeliani was also a key figure in the country’s cultural and religious revival.

Born in the village of Tsurtavi, near Bolnisi, where his house-museum is open for visitors, Sulkhan-Saba is best known for Sibrdzne Sitsruisa (A Book of Wisdom and Lies), blending fables, moral lessons, and sharp observations about everyday life.

The mosaic was created in 1984 by Georgian artist Vazha Mishveladze, and despite the building’s condition, it still shines with detail and symbolism.

The cinema itself hasn’t been in use for years. The interior is gutted, and sadly, much of the space is filled with debris—but surprisingly, the screen and rows of auditorium chairs are still intact.

If you’re the kind of traveler who enjoys exploring decaying but beautiful Soviet-era structures, it’s worth a quick stop to peek inside and admire the mosaic from up close.

Peek inside the Bolnisi Culture House and Theater

If you’ve read my guide to Soviet architecture and mosaics across Georgia, you’ll know that culture houses and theaters from that era are often grand spaces, complete with elaborately decorated halls and auditoriums.

So when I stepped into the Bolnisi Culture House and Theater, I was curious to see what it might be hiding.

The interior is fairly modest. There are no ornate plasterwork or painted ceilings here, but the hallway walls are lined with photos from productions, suggesting that this place is very much alive.

I’m always glad to come across an active theater in a quiet, unhurried town like Bolnisi—places like this often surprise you with their energy when you least expect it.

Walk through Bolnisi Central Park

Though modest in size, Bolnisi Central Park offers a peaceful break right in the heart of town—and a few unexpected finds if you take your time exploring.

The entrance is hard to miss thanks to a series of 12 Soviet-era mosaics still in excellent condition.

Each panel captures a slice of local life, from traditional Georgian dance and winemaking to scenes of agriculture and cattle breeding. The artwork alone makes the park worth a stop. Unfortunately, neither the author nor the date is known.

Further inside, you’ll find a memorial to the victims of April 9, commemorating the lives lost during the 1989 pro-independence protests in Tbilisi. Known as the April 9 Tragedy, the peaceful demonstration was brutally dispersed by Soviet troops, leaving 21 dead and hundreds injured.

The park also features a few sculptures, including a bust of Ilia Chavchavadze, one of Georgia’s most respected writers, public figures, and national revivalists. A key figure in the 19th century, he played a significant role in shaping modern Georgian identity through his literature, politics, and educational work.

There’s also a small playground for kids, gravestones dedicated to war heroes, and a fountain topped with an angel statue.

A small café also sits inside the park, though it was closed during my visit, so I can’t say whether it’s a seasonal spot or permanently shut.

Visit the oldest surviving church in Georgia

Just outside Bolnisi lies Bolnisi Sioni, one of Georgia’s oldest and most significant churches, founded in the 5th century, when the country adopted Christianity.

It is also a rare architectural survivor from that era. The structure is a three-nave basilica with a modern roof, but much of the original stonework remains intact.

Additionally, it features the earliest dated Georgian script—the Bolnisi inscriptions, carved in the late 5th century, which mention Bishop David of Bolnisi and Sassanid rulers Peroz I and Kavadh I. These inscriptions are also among the oldest examples of Georgian writing.

And, of course, there’s the Bolnisi Cross: Georgia’s oldest known cross design, carved into the church itself and used as the national symbol. This unique cross shape would go on to influence many others across Europe, from the Maltese cross to the Iron Cross, and is echoed today in the small crosses of Georgia’s national flag.

Stand at the site where the oldest humans outside Africa were found

Just past Bolnisi, the Dmanisi archaeological site is one of Eurasia’s most important prehistoric excavation zones.

It’s here that archaeologists discovered the oldest known human remains outside Africa, dating back around 1.85-1.77 million years. If you’ve ever seen the skulls displayed at the Georgian National Museum in Tbilisi, they were found right here.

Excavations at the site uncovered five remarkably well-preserved hominin skulls, stone tools, and animal bones.

The skulls belong to early Homo erectus, though their mix of features has sparked debate and reshaped ideas about human evolution—suggesting that what were once thought to be separate species might have actually belonged to one diverse population.

In addition to the dig site and small seasonal museum, the area around Dmanisi is scenic and worth exploring.

The site area has seen continuous settlement since the Early Bronze Age, long before it became famous for its archaeological discoveries.

By the 6th century, it had grown into a notable religious center with the construction of Dmanisi Sioni Cathedral (also called St. Virgin Mary Cathedral), one of the region’s earliest Orthodox churches.

By the 9th century, Dmanisi appears in historical records as part of the Arab Emirate of Tbilisi. Strategically positioned at the crossroads of trade routes, it flourished into a major medieval commercial hub, so much so that even Muslim scholars noted its silk exports.

The town saw waves of conquest and rebuilding: captured by the Seljuks in the 1080s, reclaimed by King David the Builder and his successor Demetrios I in the early 12th century, then devastated by Timur’s armies in the 14th century and again by the Turkomans in 1486.

It never fully recovered and gradually faded into a quiet village by the 18th century.

Today, the ruins of the ancient city still stand on top of the hill, overlooking the valley and offering sweeping panoramic views.

Scattered around the site, you’ll find old Muslim gravestones alongside Georgian ones typical of the Kvemo Kartli region—stone-cut in the shape of sheep or horses, often engraved with symbols that hint at the person’s identity or profession.

Climb up to the well-preserved Kveshi Fortress

Outside Bolnisi, the Kveshi Fortress sits high on a rocky outcrop, once guarding key trade and military routes between Samshvilde, Tashir, and Javakheti.

Dating back to the medieval period, it played a significant strategic role for centuries, serving as the primary residence of the King of Kartli and later becoming the stronghold of the influential Orbeliani family in the 17th and 18th centuries.

By the end of the 18th century, the fortress had lost its importance after Kartli fell, and by the early 19th century, it came under Russian control.

What remains today is surprisingly well preserved compared to other fortresses around Georgia. You can still see sections of the defensive walls, watchtower ruins, and even a tiny stone church inside the compound.

Visit Georgia’s only relocated historic Persian bathhouse

Tucked into the outskirts of Bolnisi, the Abulmugi bathhouse is one of the region’s more unusual historical landmarks.

Dating to the 17th–18th centuries, it’s a rare surviving example of Persian-style architecture in Kvemo Kartli. The bath was unearthed in 1977 during archaeological excavations near the ruins of the old town of Abulmugi.

Researchers found a coin from the time of Queen Rusudan (who ruled from 1223 to 1245), fragments of glazed ceramics, remnants of the original water system, and a nearby clay oven.

By the 2010s, the bathhouse was in critical condition. Ongoing erosion, plant overgrowth, and active geological shifts put the structure at serious risk.

Thanks to the persistent efforts of the Sakdrisi Committee, urgent stabilization works were carried out in 2018, and more comprehensive conservation began shortly after.

Because the bath stood inside a mining zone operated by RMG, the monument’s survival required an unprecedented move. In 2021, after detailed surveys and months of preparation, the 134-ton stone bathhouse was relocated in one piece—a first in Georgia’s history.

The new location was carefully chosen to match the original setting, ensuring the monument’s integrity remained intact.

Tips to know before visiting Bolnisi

Before you head off to explore Bolnisi, here are a few things that are helpful to know in advance.

• Tourist Information Center: Although all the information you need for your trip is here, you can still drop by a small tourist info point in town right next to the Bolnisi District Court (the exact pin is on the map above).
• Easy day trip or short getaway: Bolnisi can easily be visited as a day trip from Tbilisi. Marshrutkas run regularly from different parts of the city (see my How to Get There section for detailed directions). You can also stay overnight to explore more of the surrounding region.
• Getting around: Bolnisi itself is compact and walkable, but if you want to visit sights outside the city, you’ll need a car or rely on taxis. Public transport to these spots is very limited.
• Dining & accommodation: While I’d love to encourage you to support the local economy by spending the night, it’s only fair to mention that dining options are minimal. There are just two or three restaurants in town, and if your accommodation doesn’t serve meals, you’ll need to rely on bakeries or stock up from local shops. That said, it’s absolutely doable if you don’t mind keeping it simple. (See below for my accommodation and restaurant picks.)
• Planning ahead helps: Accommodation is limited, so it’s a good idea to book in advance, but you might be alone with the entire guesthouse like I was when I spent a night.

How to get to Bolnisi

Public transport

Tbilisi to Bolnisi marshrutka (minibus) departurts from three spots:  Samgori Bus Station, Sadguri/Vagzali (Central Railway) Bus Station, and Ortachala, just across from the Emergency Management Service of the Ministry of Internal Affairs (you can find the exact pin in my Google Maps list above).

If you’re deciding between stations, Ortachala is usually the most reliable, with more frequent departures throughout the day. The first marshrutka to Bolnisi leaves Ortachala at 8:30 am, followed by one every hour until 12 pm, and then every 50 minutes into the afternoon.

From Samgori, departures are a bit more limited: 11:15 am, 1:30 pm, 2:15 pm, 3:15 pm, and 4:20 pm.  

To return, Bolnisi to Tbilisi marshrutkas run every 15–20 minutes, but make sure you ask the driver for the final destination point/station.

Own car

Exploring Bolnisi with your own car allows you to go beyond the city limits and visit spots that are hard to reach by public transport. If you need to rent a car, I recommend LocalRent—they offer competitive prices, a good selection of vehicles, and often include insurance in the base rate.

GoTrip private transfer

If you’d rather not drive but still want the comfort and flexibility of a car, GoTrip is your best bet. Consider it a long-distance Uber: clean vehicles, professional drivers, and reasonable prices.

You can add multiple stops to your route and explore at your own pace. It’s perfect for a day trip from Tbilisi or a one-way transfer if you plan to stay overnight and return the next day.

Where to eat in Bolnisi

I honestly assumed finding a decent restaurant or café in Bolnisi wouldn’t be a problem, but I was wrong.

Dining options are extremely limited, and many places that once served visitors (like the well-known Deutsche Mühle restaurant at the hotel) have since closed their doors to walk-ins and only offer breakfast to overnight guests.

There are a couple of newer fast food-style spots—a burger place and a Turkish-style shawarma shop—but chances are, you’re not coming to Bolnisi for that kind of meal.

Marani Restaurant

Nearly every local I asked pointed me to Marani, a restaurant attached to the town’s brewery, which I mentioned above.

The German-style beer here is fresh and affordable, and while that part was a win, the dining experience wasn’t my favorite. However, I am still mentioning it here so you know and decide whether you want to try it or not.

There’s no printed menu—your server is the menu, which always makes me uneasy when I don’t know the price range (although it will be cheaper than Tbilisi). Most of the staff probably won’t speak English either.

Expect standard Georgian staples: khinkali, mtsvadi, khachapuri, kebab, cucumber-tomato salad, and maybe one or two more dishes.

We tried it once, and honestly, I wasn’t impressed. The khinkali and kebab were bland and underwhelming, though locals insist it’s excellent by Bolnisi standards. You’ll find a few tables outside (not ideal in the summer heat) and private, air-conditioned cabins inside.

Khinkali House

I discovered this place on a more recent trip, and the food was noticeably better than Marani’s.

The menu is larger and includes various appetizers, several types of khachapuri, pizza, khinkali, stews, kebab, and more.

It’s only in Georgian, but Google Translate does the trick. I had a well-seasoned, generous salad that was surprisingly satisfying.

Golden Fish Restaurant (Kvemo Bolnisi)

Though I haven’t tried it yet, several people messaged me about Golden Fish Restaurant after I shared my food struggles on Instagram.

It’s a 15-minute drive from Bolnisi, located in Kvemo Bolnisi, and seems to be the most promising option in the wider area.

They serve fish straight from their farm, along with typical Georgian meat and vegetarian dishes, and there’s a garden for outdoor seating.

Vanilla

This tiny takeaway spot offers syrup-based juices, lemonades, waffles, ice cream, hot and iced coffee, milkshakes, and small doughnut-like pishkebi.

I tried the juice—it was okay—but I didn’t return the next day to test the coffee. It might be the only place in Bolnisi that serves proper machine-made coffee.

Wine cellar lunch or dinner

As mentioned earlier in the wine-tasting section, booking a meal at one of Bolnisi’s family-run wineries is one of the best ways to enjoy Bolnisi.

Most of these places require booking in advance, but if you have time and want to try something truly regional, it’s worth arranging a wine tasting paired with lunch or dinner at one of the spots mentioned above.

Recommended Bolnisi hotels

There are only a handful of places to stay in Bolnisi, ranging from small hotels to family-run guesthouses. Here’s what you can expect from each one based on my research—and, in one case, a personal stay.

Guest House Bolnisi – Duplex Apartment: A cozy two-bedroom duplex apartment with a garden and terrace—great if you prefer your own space. Fully equipped kitchen, balcony, and washing machine make it ideal for longer stays.

Almendinger Bolnisi: It’s probably one of the most hotel-like stays in town. Rooms are comfortable and come with all the basics—AC, TV, private bathroom.

Bolnisi Elia: A guesthouse with a seasonal pool, garden, and views of the mountains and river. Rooms are simple but clean, and it’s pet-friendly.

Hotel Deutsche Mühle: Set in a beautifully restored historic mill, this hotel offers a peaceful garden setting and a traditional atmosphere. Rooms have river or mountain views.

Bolnisi Prime House (my pick): I stayed here and liked the peaceful vibe. The garden is lovely, and the breakfast is optional. It’s a bit off the main area—about a 15-20-minute walk to the center—but it’s quiet and charming if you don’t mind the distance.

Jeffrey+: A guesthouse with a sunny garden and outdoor sitting areas featuring a washing machine and shared kitchen if you want to cook something.