9 Best Things to Do in Mestia | Non-hikers Guide to Svaneti

Nestled under the foot of the Caucasus Mountains range, Svaneti is no doubt a hikers paradise; lush greenery, gorgeous waterfalls, deep gorges, alpine lakes, medieval defense towers, and snow-covered peaks do leave you speechless. However, there are various things to do in Mestia that involve less hiking and enable you to be close to nature and see some of its iconic spots. 

Please note that this non-hikers guide to Svaneti does cover a few hiking trails which are easy or moderately easy and don’t need much physical preparation.

Because let’s face it, Svaneti is known for its highland natural wonders, so without that, Mestia is just a tiny town with few things to do. And going through all the effort to get to Svaneti might not be worth it just to see Mestia. The absolute beauty of this region is in its wild nature and mountain peaks. 

Moreover, even if you are a big hiker and want to conquer the whole Svaneti, you should estimate anywhere from one week to two or even three weeks. And if you are coming to Georgia for your vacation, you most likely will be short on time unless you are coming here just for Svaneti. 

So, for those of us who are not big hikers or, for whatever reason, can’t walk long distances every single day for the entire day, or are short on time, here’s a non-hikers guide of things to do in Mestia. 

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Understanding Svaneti region

Before diving into providing all the practical information and tips, I need to explain more about the region. 

Situated on the southern slopes of the Caucasus Mountains, 3,000-5,000 meter-high peaks surround Svaneti, making it the second-highest inhabited area not only in Georgia but in Europe.

It is also home to the ten highest peaks of the Caucasus, with the highest being Shkara (5,201m), followed by Tetnuldi (4,974m), Shota Rustaveli (4,960m), and Ushba (4,710m).  

The region is divided into Zemo (Upper) and Lower (Qvemo, also spelled as Kvemo) Svaneti. Zemo Svaneti lies on the upper part of the Enguri river, while Qvemo is along the upper Tskhenistskali river. Mestia is the center of Zemo Svaneti and Lentekhi is for Qvemo. Svaneti Range separates these two areas, which is almost as high as the Caucasus range. 

Since many nations invaded Georgia pretty much the whole time, Zemo Svaneti remained almost untouched. The isolated location with harsh climate and lack of roads made it inaccessible for the enemy. Therefore, many of the country’s treasures have been preserved here for centuries and displayed in its museum. All these factors played a considerable role in keeping Svan culture and traditions intact. 

The region has its own language, Svan, belonging to the Kartvelian languages other than Georgian, Megrelian, and Tushetian. It is entirely different from any of the local languages, so I personally don’t understand any word in their language. Unfortunately, today Svan language is endangered, with fewer and fewer people speaking it. 

And to even better understand the region, its culture, and clan life, I would suggest watching an independent movie Dede, filmed in Ushguli, one of the highest communities in the country.

The movie won many international awards, and I have even met Spanish brothers who came to Georgia just because they watched Dede in Spain and were interested in the country. 

However, if you can’t find it online, several places in Mestia and Ushguli play the movie daily.  

Best time to visit Mestia & Svaneti

Due to the recent infrastructural development in the region a couple of years ago, Svaneti is now accessible almost every season. Having snowfall in winter is very common, which sometimes blocks the road, but as Svaneti has also been turned into a ski resort, the streets get cleared often and fast. 

During winter, snow might reach 5 meters high and is ideal for those who love skiing. But you won’t be able to do any other things in Mestia except for heading to the slopes. 

Summer is the best time to visit Mestia and Svaneti to hike and experience its beautiful nature. Mestia in summer sees warm days, while evenings are chilly with a bit of breeze.

I was told that fall foliage is also breathtaking in Svaneti, so if you don’t mind cold days, you might consider visiting Mestia in autumn as well. 

What to pack for Mestia & Svaneti

You should pack accordingly, depending on your Mestia itinerary. However, here are the essentials that I think you need for the hikes and in general.

Daypack: a small daypack or a backpack to carry all your necessary items during the hike – a water bottle, snacks, documents, wallet, etc. My 55 Liter Osprey Farpoint backpack has a day pack. Here is my review of the Osprey Backpack.

However, I have another backpack – CITYC 2 in 1 Backpack from Driibe. Even though it is for a city, I love its versatility and use it on small hikes too. (get 15% off with code: FEDORA15). Read my full review of the backpack.

Several T-shirts: when thinking of what to pack for Mestia, consider that you’d be hiking almost every day. Have an extra t-shirt during your hikes to change the sweaty and wet one to prevent getting cold. Even though the weather might be warm, there are slight winds in the mountains, so be cautious. 

Leggings or hiking pants: while I have seen people doing those hikes in jeans, wearing leggings/hiking pants are more comfortable, obviously. 

Comfortable shoes: if you don’t have any special hiking boots or shoes, very comfortable and light sneakers/tennis shoes will do just fine. The keyword here is comfortable as you don’t want to get any blisters or cause pain. 

Hat: any kind of hat (I travel with a fedora) or scarf (I always through a quick-dry Turkish cotton scarf/towel) to cover while hiking in the open sky under the sun. 

Sunscreen: it’s easy to get sunburned while hiking in the mountains without even realizing or feeling it. Choose your preferred sunscreen.

Rain jacket: to be on the safe side. The weather in the mountains can be unreliable. Even if the sky is clear in the morning, it can get cloudy in the afternoon, followed by heavy rains. It also comes in handy in windy alpine areas, so throw in a packable raincoat.

Hoodie/Sweater: evenings and early mornings can be pretty cold or breezy, so bring one warm sweater, cardigan, or hoodie. 

How many days should you stay in Mestia? 

This highly depends on what you plan on doing in Mestia and Svaneti in general. There are dozens of hiking trails and treks available for visitors.

I highly recommend checking Trekking Caucasus’s section on Svaneti to get an idea and familiarize yourself. You can also check out fellow bloggers and vloggers, Kim and Del’s, Going the Whole Hogg YouTube Channel. Their hiking videos are simply stunning!

If you plan on short day hikes, like we did, you can cover all those locations mentioned in this Mestia travel guide in four-five days. 

We stayed six nights in total in Mestia and had a couple of other things planned. Due to technical and infrastructural problems, such as cable cars working halfway, etc., we ended up taking our time and enjoying Mestia rather than rushing through. 

How to get from Tbilisi to Mestia

Mestia is well connected with public transportation to the major cities of Georgia, including Tbilisi and Kutaisi. The distance from Tbilisi to Mestia is 466km and indeed is a very long ride in a day. I always recommend having a stopover in Zugdidi and spending a night in the central town of the Samegrelo region.  

There are flights from Natakhtari (a small village 30km away from Tbilisi) and Kutaisi to Mestia with a tiny aircraft operated by Vanilla Sky. You can buy tickets online and they cost 90 GEL from Natakhtari and 50 GEL from Kutaisi. However it doesn’t fly every day and your flight might be canceled due to weather conditions. Which happens quite often; just something to consider when planning the trip.

Before the pandemic, the most frequent route was to take the Tbilisi-Zugdidi night train and change to the marshrutka, taxi, minivan right at the arrival in the morning at around 6-6:30 am. 

However, all this has changed. Even though there are direct marshrutkas or minivans leaving straight from Tbilisi to Mestia, it’s exhausting to be in the car or somewhat comfortable marshrutka for at least 8 hours. Why would you torture yourself? 

So, here’s the best route from Tbilisi to Mestia in case you can’t fly:

If you’ll be taking public transport, the easiest one, in my opinion, is to take a Tbilisi-Zugdidi train in the morning. The ride takes 6 hours, and you will be in Zugdidi after 2 pm. While you can hop on the other vehicle and go straight to Mestia, why not stay a night in Zugdidi? This way, you will have time to relax, recharge, and visit another region of the country.

→ You can buy train tickets online at either Georgian Railway or Tkt.ge. 

You can talk to the drivers and reserve your sit in marshrutka at the train station. In case of traveling as a group, hire a private taxi/van.

Marshrutka from Zugdidi to Mestia costs between 30-35 GEL per person, and as it was five of us, we decided to hire a minivan. The prices for vans/taxis start from 150 GEL one way. We had the van all to ourselves and even asked the driver to make a short detour for us to see Enguri Dam, the genius construction of the Soviet era.

If you are in Kutaisi and want to go to Mestia from there, only one marshrutka a day directly drives from Kutaisi to Mestia. They leave early in the morning, and if you miss it, you can still catch the one to Zugdidi and tell the driver that you want to go to Mestia. They will help you transfer to Zugdidi-Mestia marshrutka, taxi or van. 

When returning from Mestia to Tbilisi, I suggest the same route. You can stay overnight in Zugdidi or continue directly to the capital. 

To avoid the hassle of changing all the transportation, book a private transfer via GoTrip, a platform that offers a driver service throughout Georgia. It has reasonable prices and professional drivers that adhere to safe driving standards. Moreover, you can make unlimited stops along the way.

Here are drivers you can reserve from Tbilisi to Mestia, and here are the ones that will drive you from Kutaisi to Mestia.

If you prefer joining an organized tour, here is one of the best several-day tour of Mestia, Hatsvali, and Ushguli.

Where to stay in Mestia – best Mestia hotels

Mestia has a wide range of accommodation options to suit every budget. There are plenty of guesthouses, a few apartments, A-frame cottages, and luxurious hotels, to name a few. So here are some of my recommendations on where to stay in Mestia: 

Guesthouse: Ioska’s House – this small Mestia hotel features cute decor items, amiable owners, and a great experience on its own. The prices are pretty low and even include a delicious breakfast. Our friends stayed here, and they loved every second of it. 

Apartments: Svaneti Apartments – one of the best options if you want to stay in an apartment and be on your own. With its cute and cozy interior, the place can fit up to six people. It’s also within a walking distance of the center and museums. 

Budget-friendly: Hotel Panorama Svaneti – with every room equipped with a private bathroom, the hotel is close to the center and a ski lift if you plan on coming to Mestia in winter. You can choose mountain or garden view rooms.   

Mid-range option: Hotel Old House Mestia – located on a small hill overlooking Mestia, the hotel is housed in an old residential home with a defense tower adjoining the building. With a terrace, lounge area, comfortable rooms, and a restaurant that serves delicious food, it is one of the best moderately priced Mestia hotels. 

Latour Mestia – another excellent mid-range hotel in Mestia with colorful common areas and cozy rooms. The hotel is perfect for families, couples, and friends and is close to everything. 

A-frame cottages: Wooden Huts In Mestia – located a bit far away from the center, around 3km; these huts are great if you want to spend your time alone with a group of friends, family, or partner as it accommodates about nine people in three bedrooms. It also has a space to cook your own meals. 

Bude Mestia cottages – located on the other side of the river, Bude Mestia huts offer isolated stays with garden views, a terrace, a designated fireplace in the garden, and a restaurant, to name a few. 

Luxurious option: Gistola Hotel Mestia – this 4-star hotel in Mestia offers a modern design with a touch of color and city views from its well-equipped rooms with all the amenities like a fridge, a kettle, a desk, and a safety deposit box. 

→ Find more Mestia hotels on Booking.com

Things to do in Mestia town

While there are plenty of things to do in Mestia, depending on what kind of travelers you are, this section provides the iconic places to visit in the town or have access from it. 

See the unique treasury at the museum 

One of the first things to do in Mestia is to visit the Svaneti History and Ethnography museum, even if you are not a big museum fan. The reason is that it is jam-packed with relics found in archeological excavations and kept secretly during the invasions. Georgia’s some of the most unique treasures are here instead of Tbilisi museums.

It is also a great place to understand the local culture, traditions, and attire. Admire beautiful jewelry works, weaponry, coins of various decades, ancient books and pamphlets, and more. 

• Opening hours: Tue-Sun: 10 am – 6 pm
• Entrance fee: Adults – 10 GEL

Learn more about the pioneer of Georgian Alpinism

There’s one museum to put on your list of things to do in Mestia – a house museum of Mikheil Khergiani, the pioneer of Georgian mountain climbers. Nicknamed “Tiger of the Rocks/Cliffs” because of this unique technique to rapidly climb the slopes, Khergiani was a seven-time national champion and holder of the Honoured Master of Sport of the USSR title. 

• Opening hours: Every day: 10 am – 6 pm. If there is no one, the family member who also shows you around lives next door, so you can either call the number written on the door or go next door and call them. 
• Entrance fee: Adults – 10 GEL

Climb to the rooftop of the tower

For a bit of an adrenaline rush and panoramic views of Mestia, climb to the roof of one of the defense towers. The climb up there is exhilarating, but the way down is scarier. There are no stairs, just wooden ladders that, in some cases, are a bit shorter so, you’ll need to do slight climbing. 

Also, be aware of dirt and dust, so come in clothes that you don’t mind getting somewhat dirty. 

• Entrance fee: 2 GEL

Ride Hatsvali cable car to the top

Hatsvali is a ski resort, and taking it even in summer is a great way to appreciate mountains from a different angle. The cable car consists of two parts: Mestia-Hatsvali and Hatvali Zuruldi. The whole point of riding it is to go on the top and enjoy breathtaking scenery views while enjoying a cup of your favorite beverage at the Zuruldi cafe, located 2,340 meters above sea level. 

Unfortunately, neither the second part nor the cafe worked during our visit, so we skipped it. Therefore, before buying any tickets, make sure to double-check if the second cable car is running. However, if you are still determined, you can hike up for around one hour on a steep hill to reach Zuruldi from Hatvali station. You can enjoy picture-perfect views of Mount Ushba from Zuruldi. 

• Opening hours: Every day: 10 am – 4:30 pm. Before going, ask if the cable car works, as it doesn’t run some days. 
• Entrance fee: 20 GEL round trip, regardless of whether the second cable car works. 

Indulge in a local cuisine

Svanetian cuisine is quite different from the rest of the country’s cuisine and perfectly reflects the landscape and climate of the region. Heavy on dough and dairy products, here are top meals you need to try in Mestia: 

Kubdari: circular-shaped meat pie is Georgia’s Intangible Cultural Heritage. The filling is mainly chopped pork but can also be of lamb or beef. It’s seasoned with onions and various local spices. 

Nertsvi: mashed potato with cheese results in a scratchy and filling meal. It is incorrectly called Tashmijab in the whole country, including me until I visited Ushgli and the ladies at the restaurant corrected us. Nertsvi goes well with local sour yogurt, but you can also eat it plain. 

Tashmijab: melted Sulguni (think of salty mozzarella) cheese in the butter. 

Petvraal: Khachapuri, a cheese pie, made from millet (petvi) flour. 

Chvishdar: small cornbread where cheese is mixed in the dough before frying. Try Chvishdar made from petvi (millet) flour; it’s more delicious than corn one. 

Svaneti salt: similar to the allspice but with salt. Most of the local dishes are seasoned with Svanetian salt. Apart from salt, the recipe calls for dried seasoning such as coriander, dill, fenugreek, red chili, cumin, and mashed garlic. 

Where to eat in Mestia

While Mestia’s dining scene has developed a lot over the years, there are still a couple of restaurants in Mestia that are everyone’s favorites. Cafe Leila comes up on every blog post or listicle of Mestia restaurants, and there is no doubt why. It offers some of the most delicious meals in town. Due to its popularity, they are almost always full, so I suggest booking a table for lunch or dinner. We mostly ate here during our stay in Mestia. 

The Old House Mestia Hotel restaurant is another excellent choice to enjoy finger-licking delicious food on the terrace with views of Svan towers. This is where we tried millet Chvishdar and absolutely loved it. One thing to note is that they made a mistake on the final bill with overcharging us for a jug of compote, so make sure to check before paying. 

Other things to do in Mestia – Day hikes & tours 

Your Mestia itinerary can vary depending on what kind of things you want to see and do. This non-hikers guide to things to do in Mestia provides all the necessary and practical information on several easy day hikes you can do around the town.

To ease up things and enable us to have more time, we hired minivans to take us to the start of the trail. However, if you are in good physical shape, don’t mind walking long distances, and have enough time, by all means, do the hike from start to finish yourself without transportation. 

See the Chalaadi Glacier up close 

This is probably the easiest day hike you can do in Mestia. If you leave early in the morning, it can even be a half-day hike. 

Many people skip it because it might not be as scenic as other hikes. However, I think it’s a great introductory hike to Mestia and Svaneti to do on your second day. You will familiarize yourself with the climate, elevation gain, and trail characteristics. 

The trail takes 1:30hr to reach the glacier and 1hr to return. The start is a bit uphill but then flattens in the middle and follows a tree-covered terrain until you enter the alpine zone. 

We missed one turn and ended up walking over huge rocks until we reached the glacier. But the scenery and landscapes were worth it. 

Dust and dirt cover the whole glacier, so you might not even realize that you can actually touch a giant iceberg. However, be cautious and don’t go close to the entrance. There are no signs, but rocks and stones do roll down! 

Logistics: minivan price starts from 100-120 GEL in total. The driver brings you very close to the starting point and waits for you until you get back. 

My recommendations: After doing the hike, I would have skipped the vehicle transportation. Firstly, we stayed at the end of Mestia, where the paved road to the trek starts. We were not that far, and we could have easily walked another hour or hour and a half to reach the start of the hike. 

Heshkili Huts – not worth the hype

Heshkili Huts is an accommodation on top of a hill in one of the oldest villages of the same name. The huts got very popular among Georgians, offering cute and cozy cottages with mountains views and a big garden with hammocks and swings. 

They also have a cafe overlooking the mountains where you can have lunch or enjoy a beverage. However, the service and the food were so bad that I highly recommend skipping it. This is what I didn’t like: 

1. There is no menu, not even written on a piece of paper or somewhere on the wall
2. Therefore you never know prices, it may change all the time
3. Limited choice of food, which is somewhat understandable
4. We pretty much begged for attention from the staff members
5. Our bill was the most expensive here than elsewhere in Svaneti for the same meals we ate. To give you an idea: 3 Kubdari + 3 Nertsvi (Tashmijab) + 2 Chvishdar + drinks = 103 GEL. This would have been fine if the food was tasty. 
6. Due to its popularity, the place can be pretty busy and noisy.

Logistics: minivan price starts from 70-80 GEL in total. The driver waits for you.

My recommendations: Instead, go for a quick drink or this Instagrammable swing located on a lower hill behind the venue.  However, there can be a queue.

Enjoy the scenic views of the mountains at alpine lakes

Koruldi Lakes, located around 10.5km away from Mestia on one of the sides of Mount Usha, is one of the popular Mestia attractions. It’s also a popular day-hikes in Mestia for those who’d want a relatively moderate hike from the town. The walk takes around 7 hours in total. 

Although the lakes themselves are not very interesting, their location and surrounding mountains reflecting in the water make it a fascinating place to enjoy spectacular views. Nestled at 2,850 meters above sea level, you can admire the famous peaks of the Caucasus, including Tetnuldi, Shkhara, Ushba, and Laila, to name a few. 

On the way up to Koruldi Lakes, there’s a nice viewpoint deck to take nice pictures, enjoy the views or relax for a bit if you are hiking all the way up. 

Bring a snack and have a picnic while enjoying the tranquility and scenic views of snow-covered mountains all around you. 

Logistics: minivan price starts from 200 GEL in total. The driver waits for you.  

My recommendations: Lower your expectations – these lakes look like small ponds; however, the views and the surroundings are still worth adding it to your Mestia itinerary.

If you are traveling to Mestia in May-June, the scenery is much more beautiful at this time of the year with more snow-topped mountain peaks, higher water in lakes, and more greenery adorned with alpine wildflowers. Therefore, the views are spectacular and the reflection in the water of those mountains are much more visible.

While it’s nice to hire a minivan to avoid the hustle of walking uphills for 4 hours, make sure to tell the driver not to add other people to the van if you’d like to spend some time and have lunch or picnic at the spot. We had two other strangers added by the driver, and we had a conflict of interests – we wanted to stay while these two wanted to go back to Mestia. 

Hike up to the highest waterfall

Apart from the highest peaks, Svaneti is also home to one of the highest waterfalls – Shdugra – nestled at one slope of Mount Ushba.

The trail starts from the village of Mazari in the Becho community and has two ways to reach the waterfall. The one is a bit longer and starts at Grand Hotel Ushba, while the second is shorter by 3km and starts from Hikers Cafe and camping ground. This trail also continues up to Ushba Glacier if you have time and desire. 

Based on my knowledge and experience, starting the trial at Grand Hotel Ushba is not the best idea. It offers no additional sightseeing or views and adds time, while you tire the body.  

The shorter trail takes around 2hr one way to get close to the waterfall. The hike is a bit rocky and steep uphill and continues through the beautiful pine forest. There’s a wooden hut somewhere in the middle serving hot and cold beverages as well as Khachapuri bakes on a fire. I highly recommend stopping here on your way back. Coffee was 5 GEL, and cheese-packed Khachapuri was 8 GEL. 

You will also pass by the border checkpoint, so make sure to have your ID or passport. However, they haven’t checked ours. 

Once the pine forest finishes, there’s another quite steep uphill on an open sky that leads to the waterfall. This path is full of gorgeous wildflowers that I couldn’t stop photographing. The waterfall has access both from the bottom and the top. We decided to finish the hike at the bottom, have a light lunch and come back. 

Ushba Glacier: Although we haven’t continued the hike to the glacier, here are some things for you to consider. The trail continues to a steep uphill near the waterfall. It’s around 3km one day, and the path is much harder, requiring around two more hours uphill. In the case of rainy weather before, the trail can be slippery. Ask the border guards beforehand, as they might not let you go. 

Logistics: minivan price starts from 150 GEL in total. The driver brings you very close to the starting point and waits for you until you get back. 
My recommedation: From mid-August the trail after the border guard point is full of mushrooms. However, do not eat them if you are not familiar with mushroom types. The last part of the trail features wild raspberry bushes, making it a nice snack for the way up.
Pack something warm or a raincoat, as despite the nice weather, it’s always winty and misty at the waterfall.

Do not go to Ushguli as a Day trip

Ushguli, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and the second-highest settlement in Europe, truly is a marvelous place to explore. Therefore, I highly recommend spending a night if you can instead of making a day trip.

It’s a place that seems to be stopped in the medieval period and makes you feel as if you traveled back in time. With spectacular views of the Svan Towers backdropped with the highest peak of the Caucasus, Shkhara, you won’t regret spending more time than a couple of hours here.  

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