Complete Tusheti Travel Guide 2024: Tips, Sites & Transport

Tusheti, where emerald-green valleys cradle remote villages and pristine rivers roam through rugged terrain, has captured the hearts of courageous travelers worldwide. A land of stark beauty and untamed wilderness has become synonymous with breathtaking vistas, authentic cultural experiences, and an unparalleled sense of adventure.

Among other mountainous regions of Georgia, such as Svaneti, Khevsureti, and Pshavi, Tusheti remains one of my favorite and unique places to visit in Georgia. 

Due to its remoteness and unpaved dirt serpentine road, many travelers coming to Georgia don’t make it to Tusheti. Sadly, only a few Georgians have traveled to Tusheti. 

When planning a mountainous getaway, most locals and travelers choose Svaneti instead, another remarkable region on the western side of the country with medieval stone houses and stunning landscapes. Even though it’s a long way from Tbilisi to reach Svaneti, the developed infrastructure and more accommodation options make it a famous area. 

However, the authenticity of Tusheti expressed in its majestic highlands, delicious cuisine, and appreciation of its ancient traditions have left a memorable mark on my heart.  

Visiting Tusheti is full of unparalleled experiences, a “once in a lifetime” opportunity that demands more than a casual visit. It is surely not a place to plan a quick weekend getaway or spontaneously add to your Georgia itinerary. 

A visit to Tusheti requires deliberate preparation, especially regarding the difficult road journey that lives up to its reputation. 

Many Georgians say there is a chronology when visiting mountain regions. First should be Khevsureti, followed by Svaneti, and pinnacled with Tusheti. 

Regardless, I have done it in reverse. First visited Tusheti in 2013, followed by Svaneti, and I have yet to explore Khevsureti. I admit I should not have done that, as after a visit to Tusheti, it is hard to top the magnificent landscapes it offers. 

And don’t get me wrong, Svaneti is as spectacular as it can be and still worth exploring, along with other highlands of Georgia if you can. 

My second visit to Tusheti was ten years later, in the summer of 2023. While not much has changed, a lot of things did change. While the unpaved, dirt, and off-road roads are still there, I saw a massive development in terms of accommodation options, higher standards than before, more comfort, a few cafes, and even shops. 

I was thrilled to see a guesthouse in Shenako, where I stayed ten years ago, expand its property, include a cafe, and still be run by Eldari, the owner. 

Tusheti is constantly transforming; each season and weather change brings something new to the road or the historical sites. Therefore, much information you might find in printed guidebooks or online might be already outdated. 

Having had the privilege to explore this picturesque and charming mountain region twice, I wholeheartedly urge you to venture on your own Tusheti adventure when planning a visit to Georgia.

This ultimate Tusheti National Park travel guide is based on my recent trip there. It consists of all the necessary information before embarking on your journey, practical tips, faux what to see, and much more. 

If there is anything obscure or you have additional questions, please comment below, and I’ll be happy to assist you as much as I can.  

Why visit Tusheti – a bit about the location and the region 

Located in the northeastern corner of Georgia, Tusheti remains one of Europe’s last truly remote and untouched destinations. Bordered by Russia’s Dagestan and Chechnya to the northeast and by Pshavi, Khevsureti on the west, Tusheti is a high-altitude region often surpassing 2,000 meters under the foot of the Greater Caucasus. 

Officially part of the Kakheti region, the whole of Tusheti has been part of the Tusheti Protected Areas since 2003, including Tusheti National Park, Tusheti Protected Landscapes, and Tusheti Strict Nature Reserve spanning an area of about 113,660.2 ha. 

Tusheti National Park and its protected areas conserve specific species of pine and birch groves as well as important fauna, including the Anatolian leopard, bear, falcon, and golden eagle, to name just a few. 

In the past, Tusheti was home to four distinct communities: Prikita, Gometsari, Tsovata, and Chaghma. These communities were geographically separated from one another by four grand deep gorges.

Among these communities, Chaghma remains densely populated, where Omalo is the principal village of Tusheti, lodged at an elevation of 1,880 meters above sea level. 

Venturing deeper into the valleys reveals a series of ancient villages. Among them stand Dartlo, Chesho, Parsma, Gorevi, and Bochorna, each exuding an age-old charm that transports you to a fairy tale-looking scenery. Yet, reaching some of these idyllic hamlets, such as Parsma, is only available on foot or with a horse. 

This region’s picturesque villages and rich culture, folklore, craftsmanship, and ancient traditions are what sets this region apart. Unlike Svaneti, which for me is overcrowded and commercialized, Tusheti is still authentic, where locals are keen on preserving their traditions and customs by all means (more on this below). 

Mta-Tusheti, or mountains of Tusheti in English, has been on the UNESCO World Heritage tentative list since 2007, characterized as “one of the most ecologically unspoiled regions in the Caucasus.”

Whether you’re a daring hiker eager to explore the challenging trails that crisscross the region, a photographer seeking to capture the raw beauty of the landscape, or simply a person searching for respite from the chaos of urban life, Tusheti has something to offer everyone. 

The opportunity to disconnect from the modern world and immerse oneself in the unspoiled natural beauty of this region is an experience like no other.

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Understanding Tusheti – more about its history

Based on archaeological findings, the historical Tusheti has been populated since the Bronze Age. Lower Omalo and Shenako are believed to be the original villages. 

Throughout its history, Tusheti’s continuous interplay of diverse ethnic groups of the nearby Caucasian mountainous communities in the north by conflict and trade has presented Tusheti with a distinctive array of religious customs and traditions. Within this cultural array, you can feel the traces of Pagan and Animist beliefs blended with Orthodox Christian and Islamic influences. 

Many centuries ago, Tusheti was a shelter for the oppressed and diminished, where people from other regions sought solace from religious ill-treatment or avoiding Christianization. This historical context offers insights into Tushetians’ wariness toward outsiders. In bygone eras, newcomers were segregated and subjected to distant observation for up to a year before they were considered ready to integrate with the wider village community. 

Today, the perspective has shifted, and guests, especially tourists, are regarded as bringing good luck to their families. 

Like many aspects throughout Georgia, the establishment of the Soviet government in the country also touched Tusheti. In the 1940s, the government urged families to move away from their high mountain homes, drawing them to resettle in the lowlands of Kakheti. A few years later, the authorities started forcing the families to live in Alvani, leaving once-thriving high mountain pastures abandoned. 

The grip of restrictions began to loosen in the late 1960s and 1970s. Families were allowed to return to their mountainous homelands to partake in religious festivities. In 1981, the construction of the road through the rugged terrain started, bringing more infrastructure to the villages, like a medical center, a library, and a telegraph station in Omalo. Plans for a cable car connecting Lower Omalo with the opposite valley were conceived but remained incomplete. All these buildings are still standing in Omalo. 

The USSR’s dissolution and the ‘Dark Decade’ of the 1990s brought uncertainty for Tusheti – some services were discontinued, such as 

electricity supplies, veterinary services in farming, or road maintenance. Schools, a medical center, a telegraph, and helicopter services closed. So did the collective and state farms and trade. Tushs were again forced to leave, but this time driven by sheer necessity.

Establishing the Tusheti Protected Areas in 2023 has brought new initiatives – reconstruction of historical landmarks, opening hotels and guesthouses, marking trails, and somewhat improved infrastructure. 

Should you visit Tusheti individually or on a tour?

It’s no secret that I prefer exploring destinations independently rather than relying on organized tours. However, Tusheti presents unique challenges that make joining a tour convenient.

The remote terrain of Tusheti, with its limited infrastructure and no public transportation, can make independent travel quite overwhelming. Given these logistical complexities, joining a tour in Tusheti is a pragmatic decision.

Tours in Tusheti are specifically designed to maximize your experience while minimizing the hassles of transportation and accommodation. They provide seamless access to the region’s stunning landscapes, cultural treasures, and remote villages. 

Additionally, tour guides’ local knowledge and expertise can offer invaluable insights into Tusheti’s history, traditions, and hidden gems that might be elusive to solo travelers. They will also tell you about the faux pas and the areas to avoid as a woman (more on this below). 

My second trip to Tusheti was hosted by my friend, Magdalena (Magda) Konik, a Polish photographer who runs a tour company, ISARI, offering cultural, photography expeditions, and horseback riding tours in Tusheti. 

Alternatively, this 3-day group tour in Tusheti takes visitors to the most important villages in their all-inclusive package. 

8 Fascinating cultural insights of Tusheti

Some Tushs speak their own language

The inhabitants of Tusheti are the Tushs, an ethnic Georgian community also known as Tushebi in the Georgian language. 

In this remote enclave, people predominantly speak the Tushetian dialect of Georgian. Only a few Georgians know that some, mainly from Tsova Valley, also speak Bats, an endangered, unique, and almost vanished language. 

But don’t worry if you are exploring Tusheti independently. English is widespread, particularly among the younger generation and local guides. 

Tushs are traditionally shepherds

The Tushs have a rich heritage rooted in shepherding traditions. They are renowned for their exceptional cheese and high-quality wool production. 

During the summer months, shepherds pasture their cattle in the soaring heights of Tusheti, but as winter starts to creep in, they do a seasonal migration, relocating their cattle and sheep to the lowland villages. Some brave adventurers even join shepherds on this migratory journey in May and October. A friend of mine, photographer Nikoloz Mchedlidze, has photographed the remarkable journey for National Geographic. 

Within this close-knit community, the women showcase their remarkable talents in knitting and the art of felt pressing. They craft exquisite socks adorned with intricate patterns, weave carpets of stunning beauty, and produce fabrics for clothing, demonstrating their mastery of traditional crafts.

During the Soviet times, Tushetian wool was the primary material to sew uniforms for soldiers. Today, you can mainly find handmade wool socks and hats sold at many guesthouses. 

Tushs have their own beliefs

The dominant faith in Tusheti diverges from Orthodox Christianity, as most Tushs stick to a specific belief system interwoven with aspects of Paganism and Animism. There are several Orthodox churches throughout Tusheti, but the focal point of worship for the majority is sacred shrines known as Khati.

Tusheti had its own legal system

The historical association of the 12 judges in Tusheti was a tradition that persisted until Russia’s conquest of Georgia and the entire Caucasus. The court was in the village of Dartlo, which still stands with its stone-cut chairs.  

These respected elderly, renowned for their wisdom and profound grasp of customary law, headed over the court with authority, even beyond the reach of the king, who refrained from meddling in the community’s internal affairs.

In this judicial system, penalties were administered wisely. Thieves had to return seven times more value of the stolen goods or were sometimes punished by cutting a finger, which was then necessary to be worn as a necklaces for everyone to know that the person was a thief. Adultery, however, typically remained within the family and was viewed as a private affair. And in case of killing someone, the deceased’s family has the absolute right to seek revenge on the family in the same terms. 

The prison in Parsma village today stands in ruins. It was the place to detain those Tushs who misbehaved within the community, dishonored the family, or a woman. Depending on the crime, the elderly would determine how many days or months the person should have spent in prison, but typically, it was a month or two. 

The journey to the prison was another punishment – the prisoner would be tied with a rope to the horseman and walk on foot so anyone could see him.  

After completing their sentence, they were outcasts of the community. And while they could stay in the village, they have lost the society’s trust.

The worst penalty was to be banished from the village if the elderly decided a person was no longer fit for society.  

These rules existed until the 19th century, and because of them, there was very little crime within the communities. 

Tusheti still observes gender segregation

While the famous court of the 12 judges included women, and the region is known for its strong female characters, there are still a few gender-specific customs that Tushs still follow. 

In traditional settings, the practice of segregating men and women at the dining table exists. While this custom doesn’t extend to groups of tourists, I recommend adhering to the traditions when visiting a family home. 

Regarding religious shrines, women are not allowed at some; others have a different entrance or path (at Keselo Fortress in Omalo, for instance), or women have entirely separate shrines to worship and pray. 

Tusheti towers had a specific purpose

As you explore the landscape, you’ll encounter a remarkable sight – centuries-old tower fortresses known as “koshkebi” in Georgian or Tusheti towers in English. 

Strategically perched atop elevated hills, these towers functioned as vital communication hubs connecting neighboring villages during invasions or other misfortunes. 

Moreover, they doubled as challenging vantage points for defenses, where Tushs would throw stones and unleash gunfire upon invaders. 

Tushs had a unique drying technique

Considering the complex history of Tushs, it is unsurprising that only a few traditional Tushetian stone-house dwellings remain in the area. 

The traditional Tushetian house, crafted from a smooth slate stone (locals call sipis kva) without using any materials other than piling them on top of each other, is a rare find today. 

This construction technique would obviously leave holes in the walls Tushs used to dry their dairy products or store things. Typically, they would fill these holes with kalti (a byproduct of local sheep cheese) and let the air flow dry to their preferred structure. 

Today, locals still use the same stone for facade decoration for the house to look old and traditional. 

Remaining so authentic has a reason behind

One custom of Tushs I admire the most is the tradition of not letting an outsider, including a Georgian, buy land or start a business here. That’s why Tusheti is still very authentic, preserving its traditions and history. 

To be able to do anything in Tusheti, you need to have a Tush relative, or the community council might permit you to do something. If you get permission, you have specific rules and rituals to follow. 

They are truly afraid of the mass tourism and commercialization that happened to Svaneti, so they are honestly satisfied by the number of tourists it gets during the season. And trust me, that’s not a few. 

5 Crucial tips to follow when visiting Tusheti

Be mindful of where you step if you are a woman

As mentioned above, gender division is still quite present, and women are forbidden from venturing into specific areas. 

Shrines that locals call Khati are woven into Tusheti’s picturesque landscape. They seamlessly blend into the scenery, making them sometimes unnoticeable and hard to distinguish from the historical sites. Horn decorations of sacrificed sheep/goats and white stones are good giveaways that the place is a Khati. 

The khati can be found in every village and is often decorated with sacrificed goats or sheep horns and white stones.

Typically, women and men have separate sacred places. Men’s shrines are mainly located in and around the villages, while women’s generally are outside and far from the village. 

Keselo Fort has a sacred place within its walls and is a rare exception when women and men are allowed to the same spot. However, women have a separate, longer path to the top compared to the short route of men. 

Women of a particular age are prohibited from approaching some of these sacred grounds. Although technically permissible for young girls and post-menopausal women, tourists are generally advised to respect the customs and adhere to the rules. 

Back in 2013, when I first visited Tusheti, I was not given a proper brief about the Khati and the restrictions on women, and there were no signs either. Therefore, I constantly stepped on the area I should not have, resulting in many locals shouting at me to move away. 

On my most recent trip, I have seen signs around some of these places, but not for all. My friend and our guide, Magda, knew about all the places we were allowed to go, so it was easier this time, even if there were no signs. 

However, if you explore independently, ask your host if there are any nearby roads, paths, or shrines that you should avoid. 

Refrain from bringing pork products

Tushetian cuisine doesn’t include pork, as the consumption of it is deemed inappropriate here. 

While many Tushetians may indulge in pork when residing in the lowlands, the mountains are considered sacred and ‘pure,’ in contrast to the perceived impurity of the lowlands.

It’s crucial to honor this tradition by refraining from bringing any sort or type of pork products. 

Don’t ride a horse into a village

Rising a horse into a village originally symbolized a violent enemy presence in traditional society. Some residents still regard it as impolite or an ill fortune when someone traverses a village on horseback without stopping. 

Although this custom is not rigorously enforced, it is advisable to dismount your horse and lead it on foot through the village. You should only remount after leaving the village’s borders. 

Dress modestly, both men and women

While there are no rigid dress code regulations, adhering to modest attire is advisable, particularly in rural regions like Tusheti. It primarily is to respect local customs, but it can also help minimize the unwanted attention for women. See the ‘what to pack’ section below for in-depth run-down and packing tips. 

Tusheti is generally safe, but observing common sense is a must

In Tusheti, guests are regarded as inviolable and are provided with absolute safety and protection within their host’s home. Nevertheless, should a guest exhibit inappropriate behavior that contradicts the traditional values and morals of Tusheti, they may quickly find themselves disregarded by the community.

On the other hand, to ensure your safety while in Tusheti, you need to be aware of the following: 

Road safety: Tusheti’s road conditions demand utmost caution. Choose experienced drivers, avoid travel during stormy weather (especially after heavy rain), refrain from driving after dark, and never ride with a drunk driver – including between the villages, not only the Abano Pass.  

Accidents, often involving alcohol, have led to roadside memorials. Back in 2013, I lost count at 42. Most of these gravestones are of young men who lost their lives to a stupid habit of drinking alcohol to get the courage to tackle the dangerous roads of Tusheti. For this reason, avoid hitchhiking in Tusheti.

Medical services: Tusheti doesn’t have hospitals or extensive medical assistance. There is an ambulance, and the only licensed doctor, Irakli Khvedaguridze, lives in Borchorna village all year round. In case of medical aid or emergency, you can call 112. However, remember that the nearest hospital is 4-5 hours away. 

While helicopter evacuations are available, avoid any situations requiring such interventions.

Border areas: Tusheti’s proximity to the Russian border concerns many travelers. There is a police station in Omalo, and Georgian border police patrol parts of the border; however, the remote mountainous regions remain challenging to access. I haven’t heard of any accidents and felt safe during my visits to Tusheti, but always carry your passport as a safety precaution. And in case you see a helicopter, it most likely is a change of a border guard shift. 

Hiking safeguards: While shorter marked trails are appropriate for beginners, multi-day hikes are better for experienced hikers. These routes lead through remote areas with no shelter (only camping in tents), so you must be prepared. 

Travel insurance: Ensure your travel insurance covers medical evacuation if you plan on engaging in adventure activities in Tusheti. As a general rule of thumb, all travelers should have adequate insurance for their Tusheti trip. Check out SafetyWing’s Nomad Medical Insurance. 

Mountain dogs: Tusheti’s mountain dogs fiercely protect their sheep and cattle and are aggressive. While I haven’t seen them in villages, you may encounter them while hiking. In case of confrontation, call for help; shepherds should be nearby to call off the dogs. 

Personal safety: Employ common-sense safety practices in Tusheti. Keep valuables secure, avoid walking alone at night, and lock your accommodations. Women should dress conservatively, covering shoulders and knees as a sign of respect and minimizing unwanted attention.

While I plan on updating this guide as needed, if you find any information provided here changed, I’d appreciate it if you reached out and left a comment below. 

17 things to do in Tusheti

Tusheti is home to picturesque villages nestled amidst the majestic Caucasus Mountains. Each village boasts its own unique charm and things to do, making them all well worth a visit. 

Various trails connect these enchanting hamlets that you can explore on foot, horseback, or by car. 

2023 summer update: Torghva sulfur bath is closed due to a landslide that blocks the road to the baths.

Hike to Keselo Fortress in Omalo

The Keselo Fortress complex, a reconstructed site, presides over the Chagma Valley and serves as the focal point of Omalo. 

Keselo’s origins trace back to the turbulent period of the Mongol invasion of Georgia in the 1230s. In its initial construction, this stronghold boasted an impressive array of 13 towers. These towers served as vital defensive structures for the residents of Omalo, offering protection against the Mongol invaders and subsequent raids by Daghestani tribes.

However, as the 20th century unfolded, many of these towers fell into disrepair and ruin. It wasn’t until 2003 that a restoration initiative was launched to breathe new life into five of these medieval fortress towers. 

On my second visit in the summer of 2023, my friend and guide Magda told me that one of the towers fell down the previous year and is now standing in ruins. 

When hiking to Keselo Fortress, it’s essential to be mindful of the nearby sacred hill and for women to adhere to the marked boundaries. There’s also a slightly different trail for women to take, so make sure you ask your host. 

Peek inside the Tusheti Protected Areas’s Visitor Center in Omalo

Tusheti Protected Areas’s Visitor Center is situated within a pine tree forest around 100 meters from the signboard at the entrance of Omalo. 

Even though there is no electricity inside, it’s a great stop to learn more about the natural and cultural sites of Tusheti Protected Areas with its massive information boards in Georgian and English languages. 

There’s also a tiny shop that sells handcrafted local hats and socks. You can also see the layout of the Tushetian ancient game. If you plan hiking and prefer a paper map, you can also get one here. 

If needed, the staff will assist you in planning hikes or hiring cars and horses. 

Visit the highest village in Europe with only one resident

Many have long regarded Ushguli in Svaneti, perched at an elevation of 2,119 meters, as the highest continuously populated settlement in Europe – a title it held until 2014. 

That year, doctor Irakli Khvedaguridze decided to return to Bochorna village, lodged at an altitude of 2,345 meters, a mere 10 kilometers from Omalo. 

Irakli, now in his 80s, is the sole resident of his village and the only person able to provide first aid medical care for those living across a 1,000 sq kilometers, even to those who stay here during the harsh and long eight months of winter when the road to Tusheti remains sealed by snow.

He typically travels with his white horse named Bichola to treat the patients. But when heavy snow makes horseback riding impossible, he covers tens of kilometers on foot. If interested, National Geographic has a fantastic article about him. 

Explore one of the most charming villages of Tusheti

Lodged within the enchanting Pirikita Valley, this fortified village of Dartlo dates back to the 15th-17th century. It is a quintessential gem in the heart of Tusheti, a place that demands a visit. 

Dartlo’s rustic appeal is outstanding, with its painstakingly reconstructed stone houses and towering fortresses painting a vivid picture of centuries past. 

When wandering through the village, sharpen your eyes for petroglyphs carved into the stones of the buildings. 

Don’t miss the church ruins in Dartlo

One of the important historical sites in Dartlo is the ruins of an old church built by sandstone in the 19th century. 

Presently, the church stands in a state of near-complete disrepair. Its roof has long vanished, and the once-solid internal structure now lies barren. Out of its four walls, only three mains today. 

Although locals adhere to a distinctive belief system interwoven with elements of Animism and Paganism, the church retains its sacred standing, owing to its historical significance and proximity to a Khati – a shrine. 

Officially, women are not allowed to approach the ruins. There are signs on display; however, adherence to this rule becomes challenging as the road passes by the main entrance.

See the ancient Tushetian court in Dartlo

Known as a Sabcheo in the local Tushetian dialect, these traditional courts date back to the 16th and 17th centuries and were once an institution in every significant village across Tusheti.

The court proceedings unfolded in a circular arrangement featuring 12 stone benches for judges. They discussed all the critical and conciliatory issues of the village. The accused and the plaintiff were positioned on stone platforms at the center. The initiation of these proceedings involved each judge plucking a hair from his mustache and placing it beneath a stone. 

After hearing the case, the judges would reach a verdict. None of the Sabcheo in Tusheti issued a death sentence, and the most severe punishment was a temporary or permanent removal from the village and the community.

Dartlo’s Sabcheo was reconstructed a few years ago to show visitors its historical appearance. 

The Sabcheo, situated on a small plateau close to the church ruins, also has an information plaque.

Admire Tushetian towers

The stone towers that grace Tusheti’s landscape primarily originated in the 16th and 17th centuries as a protective response to the frequent raids conducted by Dagestanis and Chechens. 

These towers are crafted from a locally sourced slate stone known as sipis kva, utilizing a dry construction method without a mortar, and have a distinctive pyramid-shaped stone roof.

These towers were built as residential houses similar to the ones found in Svaneti and defensive strongholds. 

Throughout Tusheti, you can spot these towers scattered across the terrain, often near villages. While most of these structures have sustained damage over time, Dartlo boasts several reconstructed buildings that offer a glimpse into their original form. 

In 2012, an ambitious cultural preservation initiative jointly funded by the World Bank and the Georgian Government reconstructed 30 of Dartlo’s most distinguished houses and towers.

Hike to Kvavlo village from Dartlo

The marked trail starts from Dartlo through the village before ascending a slight zig-zag path that winds its way up the grassy hillside. While moderately challenging due to its steep incline, the trail rewards you with sublime vistas of Dartlo as you ascend.

Kvavlo is a smaller yet equally scenic village with a lone tower dominating the landscape. Back in the day, villagers sought refuge here to evade potential invaders. 

Perched at an elevation of 2,150 meters above sea level with no car road access, Kvavlo is one of the remote villages of Tusheti. While it once housed a few dozen residents, now it stands abandoned. 

Kvavlo boasts charming residence houses constructed from local sipis kva. While some structures remain well-preserved, many are in gradual decay. Marked shrines scatter throughout the village, so it’s advisable to tread carefully, as women are traditionally prohibited from approaching men’s shrines, and vice versa.

See the ancient cemetery in Dano

From Kvavlo, you can continue the hike towards Dano or organize a transfer (see ‘getting around Tusheti’ section), a more extensive and dense village. 

It features a striking hillside cemetery at its entrance, displaying numerous intricately built tombstones for families with a similar dry construction technique with sipis kva. On these tombstones, you can also find several prehistoric petroglyphs. 

Peak inside the prison in Tusheti

In the village of Parsma in the Pirikita Valley west of Dartlo and around 40km from Omalo is the prison, which was allegedly built by Kists, an ethnic minority from Dagestan that lives on the territory of Georgia’s Pankisi Valley. Tushetians would ask Kists to help them with tower construction in peaceful times. 

These three forts, built very close to each other, are lodged on a hill near the village of Parsma. Scholars believe they date back to the late Middle Ages, and one should have had seven floors while the other had six. They never had connecting bridges and always stood independently. 

Currently in ruins, this was the place where the Sabcheo would send the locals to serve their sentence. 

Visit a church in Shenako

Village Shenako, located 2,070 meters above sea level and only 8km from Omalo, is home to the exquisite St. George’s Church in Shenako, one of the few churches in Tusheti.  

The church, constructed in 1843, is made from slate stones and is a typical Orthodox Christian church with its shape and frescos inside. Although the religion did not gain significant prominence in the region, this church remains a respected and active place of worship.

In Shenako, you can also buy some dried herbs from a lovely lady, Asmati Kurdgheladze, who sells wild herbs like Kondari (Georgian thyme) that locals make tea from, as well as daisies, salvia, mint, and others. 

She hangs these dried herbs on her wooden carved balcony, perfectly blending with the architecture. You can find her house here. 

Other notable villages in Tusheti

Diklo: situated on the northeastern edges of Tusheti’s Chaghma Valley and very close to the border with Dagestan lies the beautiful village of Diklo. This alpine village seeps a distinct environment, setting it apart from the stunning Dartlo, yet equally deserving of your exploration with a rich history that traces back to the 17th century.

Girevi: located on the western far edge of Tusheti’s Pirikita Valley, Girevi is the last village in Tusheti towards the border of Khevsureti. 

The village was compactly built and consisted of about forty buildings of different purposes, some of which have preserved their original appearance. 

Unfortunately, on my second trip to Tusheti, we didn’t go to Girevi, but when I was there in 2013, only a few residents would come back in the summer from Alvani. 

Attend Peritsvaleba festival in Tusheti

Peristsvaleba translates as ‘change of colors’ in English and is celebrated nationwide on August 19. In the Orthodox Christian church, it is also the day of the Transfiguration of Jesus. 

Peristsvaleba also signifies the end of summer and the start of the fall season. Every region of Georgia also has its way of celebrating this day, and in Tusheti, it means painting one’s face with mashed wild blueberries. 

On my second trip to the region, our journey fell on Peristsvaleba festivities. A day before, Magda took us to the forest to pick up wild blueberries for the event. 

The following day, our faces were covered with the strokes of mashed blueberries. Locals believe this brings luck and happiness to the person. 

However, don’t expect huge festivities and dinners on this day. It’s less grand than the Atnigenoba, Zezvaoba, or Tushetoba festivals. Peristsvaleba is a more fun and joyful event where kids absolutely love to stroke someone’s face with blueberries. 

Participate in AqTushetii residency/workshops in Omalo

AqTushetii is a unique residency program and a heaven for creative and artistic souls. It serves as a bridge between local culture and international creativity. 

Surrounded by breathtaking landscapes, AqTushetii offers artists a serene retreat where they can draw inspiration from the region’s rich traditions and stunning natural vistas. 

With a focus on cultural preservation and collaboration, AqTushetii provides a set of workshops in film, photography, ceramics, traditional Tushetian weaving, electronic music, etc., and the residency for a minimum of 15 days. 

The duration varies depending on the workshop you take. All the workshops include transportation from Tbilisi to Tusheti, accommodation, and three meals a day. Some even provide the materials you might need. 

The fantastic environment is where you meet like-minded people, exchange knowledge and skills, and create something in the inspiring and peaceful landscapes of Tusheti. 

Check out their website for more information and Facebook page for frequent updates and upcoming dates. 

Buy local handknitted accessories

Tusheti is renowned for its high-quality handicrafts made from sheep’s wool and felt. During Soviet times, Tusheti supplied wool for the Soviet Army’s uniforms. While the wool industry declined in the 1990s, there is still one factory spinning yarn for the community in Zemo (Upper) Alvani.

Nearly every guesthouse in Tusheti sells handcrafted accessories made by the owners or their friends or family members. Tusheti Protected Areas’ Visitors Centre also has a small stand. 

Widespread accessories include thick-knitted socks, hats, felted wall decorations, and slippers. Because it’s natural wool, expect it to be rough and slightly itchy. 

One of the most popular Tusheti souvenirs is the “nabadi,” a lengthy, long-lasting felt mantle shepherds use for warmth in the field as a sleeping bag. If you decide to purchase it, remember that it’s pretty big and heavy, and might take up the whole space of your suitcase. 

Look at local stone shrines

Salotsavi, which translates to ‘place of prayer,’ is the term for the sacred shrines and respected sites scattered across Tusheti. Among these, Khati shrines hold a special place, characterized by small stone ‘houses’ with a door opening. In certain instances, these shrines have a pair of goat’s horns. 

As I said above, according to Tushetian tradition, women refrain from approaching men’s salotsavi, and vice versa.

The Khati plays an integral role in daily rituals. I have seen repurposed plastic bottles of alcohol left as an offering at a women’s shrine in Dartlo. 

Try Tushetian cuisine

Traditional Tushetian cuisine is based on the high mountain climate, geographical conditions, and nomadic lifestyle of Tushs.

Tusheti cuisine has three main directions – meat (lamb or beef), dairy products, and bread and vegetable food.

The dishes change according to the winter-summer climatic cycles and are seasonal. However, despite the predominance of meat and dairy products, guesthouses do provide meals made from vegetables. 

For more detailed information about what food you should not miss in Tusheti, refer to my complete Tushetian cuisine article. 

Learn how to make Khinkali

Khinkali, Georgian dumplings, come from the Tusheti, Pshavi, and Khevsureti mountain regions. Therefore, if you ever wondered how to make Khinkali, Tusheti is the right place. 

Several guesthouses and cafes offer Khinkali-making workshops upon request. If you travel as a family or group of friends, I can’t think of a better way to experience local traditions and cuisine. 

You can make meat and potato Khinkali. The hosts will prepare everything for you in advance. However, they’ll teach you to roll the dough to the right thickness and wrap the filling inside. Then, you’ll boil them and enjoy them for lunch or dinner. 

You can book the workshop with my friend, Magda, at ISARI. As for the solo travelers, I am not sure how accommodating the hosts can be, but you can always ask Magda if she has an extra spot on workshops or if she can find someone willing to teach you personally. 

6 Tusheti travel planning essentials

The best time to visit Tusheti

Tusheti’s rugged terrain gives way to lush alpine meadows in the summer, adorned with colorful wildflowers, while in winter, heavy snow seals it off from the rest of the country. 

Therefore, the best time to visit Tusheti is July and August. The season might open in late May and continue until late September, depending on weather conditions. 

If your visit to Tusheti falls in August, you can participate in a small local festival of Peristsvaleba on August 19. Peristvaleba translates as ‘change of colors’ in English and marks the end of summer and the beginning of autumn (more details below). 

As the snow comes in late September or early October, Tusheti caves to an eight-month respite, remaining out of reach until the relentless winter yields to the warmth of summer. 

Modern Tusheti residents, or Tushs, follow a seasonal migratory pattern. They ascend to the highlands during the summer, overlooking their cattle, participating in ancient festivals, and offering accommodations and tours to travelers. In winter, they retreat to the lowland villages of Alvani and Akhmeta in Kakheti.

The Roads Department of Georgia is responsible for clearing the Tusheti road starting in late spring. However, the progress usually depends on the weather. They post frequent updates on various road conditions on their Facebook page (in Georgian); some even make it on their English-language website. 

I suggest monitoring temperatures and weather conditions at Yr.no or Meteoblue before your trip to Tusheti and during your time there. 

How many days do you need to visit Tusheti?

To savor the essence of this captivating region, I’d recommend dedicating at least three nights to Tusheti. Anything shorter might make you feel hurried, especially considering the long and tiring drive to Tusheti. 

Remember that you’d almost need a whole day for the journey from Tbilisi to Tusheti. Therefore, your first night will likely entail a well-deserved rest.

If hiking is on your agenda, consider extending your stay to a few more days, depending on which hikes you want to do. Mountain weather can be unpredictable, so having extra days (one or two) in reserve is a wise precaution should unexpected rain arise during your visit.

How to get to Tusheti

In contrast to Svaneti, which has become a year-round destination, Tusheti is a challenging destination to get to. 

The journey to Tusheti traverses through a road that weaves its way over the treacherous Abano Pass, perched at a dizzying altitude of 2,900 meters. This is the only road that gets you to Tusheti. 

While this mountain pass unveils breathtaking vistas, it has also earned a notorious reputation as one of the world’s most dangerous roads. It even appeared on the BBC TV series “World’s Most Dangerous Roads.” You need steel nerves to endure the narrow, winding, unpaved path. 

Tusheti’s reputation as an off-the-beaten-path destination expands beyond its limited five-month accessibility, for even during this narrow window, the journey to reach Tusheti is an adventure in itself.

I explain several ways to get to Tusheti in detail in my Tusheti transport guide. 

Getting around Tusheti

Public transportation services don’t exist in Tusheti. If you’re without your own vehicle or a driver and don’t intend to hike between villages, your best option is to arrange taxi transfers through your guesthouses. For example, a taxi ride from Omalo to Dartlo village can cost 200-250 GEL for the car, where the driver waits for you and takes you back. 

While hitchhiking might be possible on certain roads, I would not suggest getting a ride with unfamiliar drivers. The roads between the villages are as challenging as the main road, so always prioritize road safety. 

Doing hikes in Tusheti

Tusheti is a hiker’s paradise offering plenty of hiking trails, breathtaking scenery, and picturesque vistas. 

With over a dozen marked hiking trails, there are choices for beginners and professionals. These trails encompass brief loops leading to lakes or towers, longer journeys between villages, and extended multi-day hikes connecting Tusheti with adjacent regions.

Advanced planning and the right gear are essential for the more extensive and challenging hikes, such as the 5-day trek from Omalo to Shatili in Khevsureti. Nevertheless, numerous routes don’t necessitate a tent, advanced planning, or special equipment.

Caucasus Trekking stands out as the go-to online resource. If you are after spontaneous hikes, the Tusheti Protected Areas’ Visitor Center in Omalo has a print map and outlines all the treks.

For the majority of hikes, you won’t require any special permits. However, it’s always wise to inquire at the Visitors Centre. Some routes near the border need a permit, so it’s best to check beforehand. For instance, when hiking from Tusheti to Khevsureti, you need a permit and to visit Diklo Castle and Lower Diklo.

If you plan to camp in Tusheti, remember that camping is technically permitted and essential in remote areas without shelters. Just ensure you place it away from a sacred site.  

Also, be mindful that there are wild animals in the mountains, including bears, wolves, and lynx. While the likelihood of encountering them is minimal, taking precautions is essential. Avoid keeping food inside your tent; instead, hang it on a tree at a safe distance.

Within the more populated areas of Tusheti, stick to the marked and designated campsites. Moreover, many guesthouses may allow you to place your tent in their yard and offer on-site facilities for a small fee. 

Going on horseback riding in Tusheti

Besides exploring Tusheti on foot, you can also join a horseback riding tour – a very popular activity as a day trip to the natural wonders of Tusheti or for multi-day hikes. I recommend doing this only if you have prior riding experience, as horses here are trained differently than in Europe or other countries. 

My friend Magdalena, or Magda in short, who runs her own photography and horseback riding tours in Tusheti, knows every local who has excellent and reliable horses, and her tours adhere to European standards of safety and well-being of the horses. 

What to pack for your Tusheti travel adventures

As Tusheti sits at considerable altitudes, it’s essential to prepare for the climate, which can present cool evenings even during the summer months, along with the potential for sporadic rain showers. Here are some travel essentials you’ll want to consider:

Lightweight fleece: A fleece, a hoodie, or a winter pullover is an excellent choice. Its thin and light design makes it an ideal companion for the variable weather conditions in Tusheti, offering a layer of warmth when needed.

Waterproof jacket: Given the unpredictability of weather in the region, packing a thin and lightweight packable raincoat is a wise precaution. This is handy for unexpected rain showers, which can occur anytime in elevated terrain.

Hiking shoes: Quality hiking shoes are indispensable for exploring Tusheti’s rugged landscapes. They provide the necessary support and traction for navigating the terrain comfortably and safely. However, tennis shoes will do just fine if you’re doing less hiking and more exploring it with a driver/car. 

Daypack: A dependable daypack is your trusty companion for carrying essentials as you embark on outdoor adventures. I have this CITYC 2 in 1 Backpack from Driibe that is quite handy and has safety pockets, not that you’d need them, but still (get 15% off with code: FEDORA15).

Warm sleepwear: While the guesthouses provide thick duvets and additional blankets, having warm sleepwear or pajamas can make your stay even more pleasant, as no heating is in the guesthouses. 

Water bottle: The tap water in Tusheti is safe to drink, making a reusable water bottle an eco-friendly and practical choice for staying hydrated during your journey. I love my Stojo collapsible water bottle that saves lots of space in my backpack.

Camera/phone: To capture the mesmerizing beauty of Tusheti, a reliable camera is a must. I had my camera Sony a6300 and Google Pixel 7 Lemongrass with me on this trip.

Power bank: Only leave home with a fully charged power bank, like the Anker, ensuring your devices remain powered up, even in areas with limited access to electricity.

Travel insurance: Prioritize your safety and peace of mind with travel insurance. Check SafetyWing’s Nomad Medical Insurance, tailored to digital nomads and frequent travelers’ needs, provides comprehensive travel health coverage.

Power strip: Most of the rooms in the guesthouses might have only one socket, so if you are sharing it with a friend, spouse, or family member, it will come in handy to have a power strip to let you charge your phone and power banks. Don’t forget universal adapter if you are coming from a country that doesn’t use European sockets.

Fast-drying clothes: Like elsewhere in Georgia, there are no tumble dryers in Tusheti, so it’s beneficial to have fast-drying clothing, especially when hiking. 

Sunscreen and insect repellent: Tusheti has mosquitoes during summer. Bring sunscreen and bug spray along.

Don’t bring some electronic devices: Tusheti gets its electricity from solar panels. It has lower wattage, and many guesthouses don’t let you use irons, hairdryers, hair irons, or electronic kettles, for instance. So leave them behind. 

Snacks: If you have a sweet tooth or love snacking, I advise you to pack some before your trip to Tusheti. Grocery stores are limited and very expensive. 

Where to stay in Tusheti

Tusheti is a region with a scattering of towns, offering a range of options depending on your desire for remoteness. 

Omalo is the main town of Tusheti. However, it’s nothing like a bustling urban center. It’s a village and a primary gateway to the Tusheti region, making it the most convenient and economical starting point for rides to and from the area. It also offers the most services, including a few shops, dining options, and guesthouses.

The most typical lodging option in Tusheti consists of family-run guesthouses. Typically, a room in a guesthouse costs around 90-130 GEL per person per night, which includes breakfast. Lunch and dinner are optional, generally priced at 30-40 GEL per person per meal. 

Bed linens and towels are provided. Some guesthouses have rooms with private bathrooms, while others have it shared. 

During the summer, the family’s children and grandchildren often spend their holidays in Tusheti, assisting with guesthouse operations, so you’ll usually find someone who speaks English.

In most cases, Omalo has plenty of accommodation options in the villages. However, tour companies sometimes sometimes book some larger guesthouses a year in advance. Hence, securing your accommodation as early as possible is wise, particularly if you plan to visit in July or August. 

Accommodation options are more limited in smaller villages, so planning is essential.

Many guesthouses are unavailable on Booking.com, requiring reservations through Facebook messages or calling. I tried to find a few on the platform to make you feel less anxious; however, I have included those needing booking via Facebook messages. 

Old Omalo Guesthouse (Omalo): this is where I stayed during my second trip to Tusheti in 2023. The guesthouse has everything for a comfortable stay and a cute garden. There are rooms with private bathrooms and the ones that have it shared. A bedding, towel, a thick duvet, and an additional blanket were provided. The guesthouse also has a cafe serving homemade meals for guests and walk-ins. 

Tishe (Omalo): a favorite budget-friendly hotel in Omalo that offers a variety of rooms with shared bathrooms. The venue also has a cafe to dine in, whether you are a guest or a visitor. 

Hotel Samzeo (Omalo): this luxurious hotel offers exquisitely decorated 41 rooms suited for couples and families. The common areas have floor-to-ceiling windows and wood-burning fireplaces, while most spaces feature antique carpets as part of the decor, creating a cozy ambiance.

The hotel has an inviting interior and big windows that bring daylight into the area. It also has a terrace, a lounge, and a big restaurant offering Tushetian meals and typical Georgian and European-style dishes. The menu has a wide choice of meals and drinks.

Initially intended as a boarding school in the 1980s, the building remained unfinished. One contributing factor was its proximity to a sacred forest where women could not enter. It is the same today. Therefore, local women don’t work or pass by here. 

→ Check out more hotels in Omalo. 

Samtsikhe (Dartlo): with twin, triple, and quadruple rooms, the Samtkshe guesthouse offers basic facilities and comfort to the guests. There’s also a bar, restaurant, and free parking. The property can make vegetarian or kosher meals. 

Guesthouse Everest (Chesho): featuring a garden and a restaurant, the rooms at the guesthouse have a balcony to enjoy stunning vistas of the area. The host can also prepare you breakfast, lunch, or dinner. 

Guesthouse Old Tusheti (Shenako): this is where I stayed back in 2013 when I first visited Tusheti. The guesthouse has all the essential amenities to make your stay here comfortable. The host, Mr. Eldari, is a fascinating person. On my second trip, I was pleasantly surprised that he expanded his guesthouse and added a cafe and a restaurant adorned with local ethnographic items. 

Tusheti travel tips to know before you go

Entrance fee: No entrance fees exist for the Protected Areas and Tusheti National Park. Unlike other national parks in Georgia, you don’t need to register at the visitors center either.

Electricity: Tusheti has electricity generated mainly by solar panels or petrol generators when needed. Some villages are still off the grid. Shenako is an exception, as it has electricity from a hydropower plant. 

In the 1980s, the government installed an electricity grid in Omalo, which is no longer in use. Due to this, please refer to a ‘what to pack for Tusheti’ section so you don’t bring specific devices you won’t be allowed to use. 

Also, be prepared that there might not be hot water sometimes. 

WiFi and mobile data coverage: During the winter of 2022, Tusheti’s internet infrastructure experienced damage, resulting in slower WiFi in Omalo than usual. In general, the guesthouses do have WiFi. 4G coverage and phone reception are also available in most Tusheti villages. The only time I had a problem with mobile internet and phone reception was in the village of Chesho. 

A similar goes to the road leading to Tusheti; coverage here is spotty but is available in some parts of the road. However, once you get to the villages, the connection is stable. 

I recommend purchasing a Georgian SIM card and an unlimited 4G package before arriving in Tusheti. Magti is the recommended regional provider and the one I use as my mobile internet connection. 

Cash is the king: No ATMs or banks exist in Tusheti, and the nearest ATM is in Kvemo Alvani village. Guesthouses typically do not accept card payments, so it’s crucial to bring enough Georgian lari in cash to cover your hotel, food, and transportation expenses. It’s wise to carry small bills for smaller transactions.

Shops in Tusheti: Tusheti does not have grocery stores or pharmacies. There are a few tiny shops adjacent to guesthouses, but prices are generally high due to the transportation costs. 

There is a bakery in Omalo, but its opening hours are unreliable. Even locals bring bread from Kvemo Alvani or ask a neighbor who’s coming to get some for them. Therefore, carrying everything you need is essential, as there may be limited opportunities to purchase items during your stay.

Restaurants/cafes in Tusheti: Tusheti has a handful of restaurants or cafes. Most of the guesthouses offer meals at an additional cost, including breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Most of these restaurants are also part of the guesthouses that allow walk-in guests to dine. In some cases, guesthouses may require an advance notice to have enough time to prepare. 

Updates on Tusheti: Tusheti National Park’s Facebook page should be your primary source for information on road conditions, festivals, and other events scheduled in Tusheti happenings. 

Tusheti Protected Landscape Facebook page also posts occasional updates and news about the region. It also publishes about touristic attractions and introduces villages and residents of Tusheti. 

My friend Magdalena, or Magda in short, is a Polish photographer who spends time in Tusheti each season and runs a tour company, ISARI, offering cultural, photography, and horseback riding tours across the area. She can also help you with transportation from Tbilisi or Telavi with a reliable and safe driver.

Offbeat Tusheti experiences

For those seeking a more adventurous and genuinely distinctive way to explore the Tusheti region, several alternative paths offer unconventional experiences beyond the traditional road.

One intriguing option entails an immersive hiking expedition from the neighboring Khevsureti region. Along this adventure, you’ll follow a marked trail that meanders from Shatili to Omalo, navigating the rugged terrain via the Atsunta Pass. This captivating journey unfolds over approximately five days involving wild camping. 

For an even more extraordinary encounter, consider tracing the livestock’s seasonal migration from late May. During this unique trip, you’ll travel alongside shepherds, who chart distinct routes featuring narrower, steeper pathways as they journey from the lowlands to Tusheti for the summer. A few tour companies specialize in guided transhumance experiences, allowing you to immerse yourself in this age-old tradition fully.

Alternatively, saddle up for a remarkable journey on horseback if you yearn to explore Tusheti via a less-traveled route. Initiated from Pankisi Valley, this journey lasts approximately five days, leading you through the picturesque landscapes and revealing the remote beauty of Tusheti and Pankisi.

Tusheti, where emerald-green valleys cradle remote villages and pristine rivers roam through rugged terrain, has captured the hearts of courageous travelers worldwide. A land of stark beauty and untamed wilderness has become synonymous with breathtaking vistas, authentic cultural experiences, and an unparalleled sense of adventure.

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